Confidence. We all strive for it.
You may want to have confidence in your job, as a parent
or when speaking in public.
But this isn't a show about getting over your fears
of speaking to an audience.
It's about sewing, more specifically, serging.
You guessed it.
I hope to teach you to "Serge with Confidence."
There's a vast array of serger or overlock sewing machines.
Each model has its own nuance.
The techniques are basically the same.
My goal is to give you assurance in serger sewing.
"Serge with Confidence."
That's what's next on Sewing with Nancy.
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To build confidence at your serger
I'm going to start at the basics
working with a four-thread overlock stitch.
Your machine may be able to hold up to four spools of thread
or perhaps, up to eight or ten spools of thread.
Regardless of the type
you'll be able to do this basic four-thread stitch.
Now when working with the serger
you may realize that it serges, or sews the seam
overcasts the seam
and cuts off the excess seam allowance all at once.
I stopped this seam in the middle
so that you could see how the excess fabric is cut off.
The needles are basic--
two needles, not one like your regular sewing machine.
Those two needles are represented by the red thread.
Inside the serger are loopers.
The loopers cast the thread
over the top.
The upper looper casts the thread over the top
and the lower looper casts the thread underneath.
They interlock on the sides.
There are blades that cut off the excess seam allowances.
This is the basic technique of all sergers.
Some are easy to thread, some take a little time.
But in essence, the same path is followed
by all sergers.
I'm going to show you the easiest threading technique
and then show you another way of threading a serger.
I'm going to close, in this particular machine
the threading ports.
It closes shut.
I'm going to remove the green thread
and put on a red thread.
Generally, you'll serge with all the same color of thread.
I'm using different colors today
so that you can maybe see the differences
in the paths that these threads follow.
I've done this on many Sewing with Nancy programs
showing you various threading options.
But it certainly pays to review the basic concepts.
Remember, this is "Serge with Confidence."
The basics.
So I'm going to put the thread in the thread port.
Make sure it's in an inch, which I think it is.
Then press it, and you can see how it shot right out.
Now I'll just hook this around to the back
and I have all four threads working together.
Now I'll unlock the threading port
and I'm ready to serge.
The stitch width and length are controlled in various places
on your serger sewing machine.
The "M" setting on my particular machine--
that's the stitch width right here--
stands for the basic "marrow" stitch.
That's an industry standard.
It doesn't mean too much to those of us that are sewing
but it gives the width at the side that's traditional.
Since I'm using
both left and right needles
to get the five-eighths-inch seam allowance guided correctly
I will guide the fabric along the left needle guide.
Later on in the program
we'll use just the right needle on some occasions.
Then we would guide it along the right.
It couldn't be much cleaner and simpler than that.
Basic locking the thread options
are to use a drop of seam sealant at the end.
A little dab will do it, and then you let it dry.
Sometimes, I enhance the drying
by catching the iron at the tip and sealing it
or threading the long thread tail
through a double-eyed needle.
The other eye of the needle you thread through
or weave through the serged areas.
Bring it through and cut off the thread tails.
This is one of my favorites.
And you have that seam locked.
If your serger doesn't have an automatic thread guide--
that's the way I learned to serge
and many of you have that type of serger at home.
I'm just going to show you in one instance
where I've tied on the next thread
using just a looped knot, a secure knot, to tie.
Here I have a red thread tied to a tan thread.
I'm going to loosen the tensions.
This has tension dials that I can control.
I have it down to "0".
If I'm just using all-purpose serger thread
I can run that through my machine
and it will go through the loopers.
Here is my tied-on thread.
I have to remember to place this back
to the normal thread settings.
Other options are to pull the threads through.
There are a variety of ways that you can work with this.
This machine works in the same manner
obviously cutting off the excess fabric
serging the seam, and overlocking it at once.
Basic, basic techniques.
I worked with tensions on this particular machine.
The normal tension on this particular model
is to have it at "3" to get a normal balanced stitch.
But there are times when you change thread and fabric
and you have to change the tension.
Some machines have automatic tension dials.
On the earlier machine, there were no adjustable tensions
but on this one, there are.
This gives you the flexibility
if you are finding that the tensions are off
to do the changes.
This first illustration shows that the fabric is puckered.
When the fabric puckers, go to your tension dials.
Sometimes, people are reluctant to change the tensions
because "tension" is kind of a negative term.
It should be "adjustment" in my opinion
rather than a tension guide.
If the fabric is puckering
it simply means that the needles are too tight.
You would loosen the tension on the needles.
You would find, on this particular serged seam
that the fabric no longer has the puckered edges.
Now the opposite tension adjustment is shown here.
You'll find "V's" forming on the underside of your fabric.
The needle is too loose.
As you might guess, instead of having a loose tension
we're going to tighten it
by a number, or two.
It is kind of smart, if you can
to put different colors of threads in your machine
at this point, to double check
to get rid of those V's on the underside.
The V's are gone now because I've tightened them
tightened the tension dials.
Now the opposite problem occurs on the outer edge.
The next illustration shows
that the lower looper thread is pulled to the right side.
So then you need to loosen the complement of it.
Remember the upper looper comes first
and the lower looper comes second.
Here the final adjustment that you may want to consider
on a basic four-thread machine
is to look at the upper looper thread.
It is going to the underside.
Then you need to tighten.
Do the converse or opposite of what you see.
These are very basics of this four-thread stitch
but will lay the foundation for the program.
Take away one of the needles from the four-thread stitch
and you guessed it!
You have a three-thread option.
This overlock stitch has built-in stretch
but I'm not going to concentrate on that.
I'm going to concentrate on it
as a decorative edge.
You can see that we have used a variety of threads.
This is a type of thread that you couldn't
normally put in a sewing machine
or through the eye of the needle.
It's workable because
the loopers do not penetrate through the fabric.
They don't stitch through the fabric
they just cross on top and underneath.
That's why you can use the heavyweight threads.
Whether you're using
a Pearl Crown Rayon or a heavy cotton width
it can go through the looper
but not the eye of the needle.
If you have an automatic threading port, I'd recommend
you cut about a yard of all-purpose serger thread
and meet the ends together.
I have to give them a little lick
so they go through the threading port.
I have all of the threading ports closed
and I'm going to hold onto the "lasso" end.
I'm creating a lasso.
Press the button, and the thread tails
have shot through the other side.
Well through this loop
is where I'm going to place the thread.
So I'm just going to string it through the top
and this heavy thread can now go through the little loop
that's been left over.
Sometimes it's easier said than done.
Here we go, we'll get it through there.
I'm just going to pull the ends of the red thread
of the all-purpose thread
and it will thread through this area
without any difficulty at all.
For traditional threading
I have cut off the thread that was there earlier
and tied on the heavyweight thread.
Now the last time I threaded this serger
I ran the serger and the thread knot went through easily.
Because this is a heavy duty thread
I'm not going to take the chance of it breaking.
I've loosened the looper tensions to "1".
I've cut the needle thread.
That disengaged the chain created by the serger.
Now with those tensions at "0"
I can pull the threads all the way through.
Sometimes at certain tension guides
give this a little bit of encouragement
because this got caught.
We'll just pull it through.
Now it's at the eye of the looper.
So now what I would do is to cut off the knot
and use a tweezers to thread the eye of the looper
for the next spot.
I've gone through the threading paths using this technique.
I'm going to go back to this serger
pass all the threads underneath the presser foot.
The one I just showed you.
You can open up the thread ports.
One more time, we'll thread this through.
Sometimes these decorative threads are a little slippery.
Now I'll show you the serging.
You want to have balanced serging
so you may--
if you do not have automatic tensions--
need to loosen the tensions.
But this has automatic tensions
so I don't have to worry about that.
And just serge.
Now with decorative threads I like to lengthen the stitches.
This has quite a coverage.
It's a heavy duty coverage on both sides
but if you'd like to lengthen the stitch--
which I'll do right now--
you can see that you'll get an open look.
Maybe this lengthened too much
but you can see the changes that you can get
just by changing the different widths and lengths.
We could also change the length.
What an interesting finish for an outer edge.
Perfect for a baby blanket.
A simple stitch, as a decorative outer edge.
By removing one needle, and using decorative thread
in the upper looper and lower looper
changing the length and doing some serging.
Next, the three-thread rolled edge.
This stitch setting
produces the narrowest serger stitch possible.
It's used primarily for hemming lightweight fabrics
but is also suitable for seaming sheers.
There are several decorative applications for this stitch
with decorative thread in the upper looper
or for pintucks and cordings.
Here's some insight on this very versatile stitch.
Check your owner's manual for settings.
I'll show you two different machines
and various changes you'll need to make to the machine
to get a rolled edge stitch.
For example, the one sitting in front of me
I've removed the left needle.
I just have the right needle in place.
Both upper and lower loopers are used for this setting.
Now for the threads.
I have a decorative thread.
I'm using contrasting thread,
but this is a rayon embroidery thread
in the upper looper
and a woolly texturized nylon in the lower looper.
This is the key, in my opinion
to getting a perfect rolled edge.
Thread that stretches when it's sewn and relaxes.
It will cause this red thread to hug around the edge.
Let's talk a little bit
about this texturized thread.
The last stitch that I detailed
was the three-thread overlock stitch.
I showed you the decorative options.
If you were going to use that stitch
as a seam in stretch knits--
knits that have Lycra in it--
I would recommend using
the texturized nylon thread
in the upper and lower loopers, and the needle
to give the seam a lot of give and stretch.
If you use this in the lower looper
for the rolled edge stitch
it will give a much tighter secured edge.
That's the settings for the threads.
I want to show you that you'll be using
a lot of the decorative threads
not a lot of the other threads.
As the machine is feeding through here.
You can see that this red thread
is feeding about two-to-one, maybe three-to-one
to the lower looper and even the needle.
By the way, we've put a thread net on the lower looper
so as this is threading out
it kind of holds everything in place
and it doesn't allow the thread
to wind or get it tangled upon itself.
When I set my machine for the rolled edge
I changed the stitch selector
so that the stitch finger in the throat plate
was changed to get that narrow stitch.
On another machine, you may change the plate or the foot.
In this instance, the plate
has a narrow, pin-like aperture where the stitches are formed
to get that rolled edge.
Since I don't have automatic tensions on this machine
I'll give you a basis, a generalization
of how the threads are changed or adjusted.
The right needle thread is normal
which on this serger is "3".
The upper looper that is going to loop around
and form the decorative edge is loosened.
I have it at "1" to "2", I like it pretty loose.
The lower looper, I've tightened it.
Normal, loose, tightened.
Again, check your owner's manual for specifics.
Napkins are great to have finished with a rolled edge.
We finished, in this instance, a throw pillow.
Serging the front and the backside together
using a decorative thread in the upper looper.
It gives a lovely finish.
To do the finished stitches
I serge about an eighth-of-an-inch of fabric
trimming it away with the blade.
That way, I'll get rid of all those extra little pokies
meaning the little extra thread tails
that come up.
So I'm just serging away a little extra fabric.
When I'm serging I have it set at about a number "2".
Now I'm going to change it to a number "1"
to show you in the stitch length
it will be key to have shorter is better.
As I lift this up, you can see the stitch length at "1"
is very tight.
Then this is the stitch length at "2."
It would be passable
but I still like the stitch length "1."
So do some adjustments on a test strip.
You may find that sheer fabrics are a perfect option
when working with a rolled edge.
The edge has been serged off
with this perfect edge on this blouse
with again, rayon thread
machine embroidery thread on the outer edge.
The fabric is really lightweight
but the thread is heavier.
So when working with this
I'm going to show you some fabric
that has been stabilized
along that outer edge.
If I show this just right, I think you can see
that we've sprayed some liquid stabilizer along the edge
and then allowed it to dry.
After letting it dry, we can do that serging.
Find that crisp edge and just serge.
Again, if you were working with a garment
you would serge on the five-eighths-inch seam line.
Here we have this beautiful rolled edge
on a lightweight fabric.
Of course, you'd use matching thread to your fabric.
Next, two common troubleshooting areas
with the rolled edge stitch.
This illustration shows that the stitches
do not completely roll tight.
They do not roll around the edge.
In that instance, slightly tighten the needle
and loosen the upper looper.
The other common issue that happens with a rolled edge
is the rolled edge stitches actually pull off the fabric.
This happens on lightweight fabric.
Lengthen the stitch so that there's less thread per fabric
and if you'd like
serge over a water-soluble stabilizer.
Then remove the stabilizer
and you'll have a perfect rolled edge.
In the sewing segments of this first program
on "Serge with Confidence"
I worked with the basics.
Truly the basics of working with a serger.
So those of you have serged a lot, this was a review
of working with a four-thread overlock stitch
for seaming.
Using a three-thread for decorative outer edges.
This is my favorite way of using that stitch.
Then the rolled edge stitch
using a three-thread rolled edge stitch
to create napkin finishes, home decorating finishes
or finish the edge of sheers and lightweight fabrics.
It's a beautiful stitch.
It's easy to do.
Keep in mind that you might have to adjust those tensions
if your serger does not have an automatic tension guide.
If so, adjust them!
Don't be afraid to change them.
It will help your stitch become balanced.
Now for the mailbag "Ask Nancy" section of the program
where you send in questions and hints.
We have all hints today, all pertaining to serging.
The first hint is from Mary Gibson
from Raytown, Missouri.
"I cut apart old jeans and use the pieces to make throws.
"One I keep in the car
"the other I use as a blanket
"underneath a picnic blanket area
"and then place one under a roll for camping.
"When I first made the throws about 45 years ago
"I used all flat-felled seams.
"It takes a little time.
"Now I simply use the serger.
"I cut four- to nine-inch pieces of random lengths
"and serge them together to form strips
"that are five to six feet in length.
"Then I serge the long strips together
"to create a throw that's 36 to 40 inches wide.
"My husband and I are still using one of the throws
"I made 45 years ago.
But now I make them much more quickly than before."
Well Mary, I appreciate that you sent samples
of how you worked with this.
Here is a scrap sample
a strip where she cut those small, little pieces
and serged them together.
Then, after having several lengths, sew the seams together.
You can see it's a single weight throw
but very durable with that four-thread overlock stitch
again, making the seam very durable.
Mary, I appreciate that.
I am sure many of us will recycle using your ideas.
I think many of you have used this hint.
But if you haven't, listen to Mardy Pickeril
from Largo, Florida.
"I use a floss threader that was designed
"to be used with dental floss for bridgework.
"Thread the floss threader
"through the path of the overlock stitch
"to secure the thread tails.
"The plastic floss threaders are too large
"to thread the needles
but they work well for threading loopers of a serger."
Mardy was kind enough to send me a step-by-step.
I always like that, Mardy.
It saves me some time.
You can see the blue floss threader.
The point is threaded through the serged area
and then the thread tail goes through the loop
much like the lasso that I created today.
You just simply pull it out
and then the thread tail is caught in the seam.
A very clever idea.
So, Mardy, I'm sure that all of us
will now put the floss threaders in our sewing box.
A great way of getting those thread tails
and also to thread a looper on a serger.
Great idea, thank you.
Marcia Nicholson lives in Plymouth, Iowa
and has an idea on "pinning" not using pins when serging.
"I use miniature wooden clothespins
"to pin fabric together when I'm serging.
"It's easy to see when they need to be removed
"and unlike pins that you may to serge over."
Good thought, Marcia.
You know, when I'm serging and I'm using pins
I pin parallel to the edge, not perpendicular
so I don't inadvertently serge over the pin.
With your idea of using miniature wooden clothespins
you wouldn't have to worry about that.
Nice idea.
Peggy Palmiter lives in Springfield, Tennessee
and has a serging hint using netting
as well as the differential feed.
"My older serger wouldn't work
to ruffle home decorating fabrics for a pillow."
The two layers were too heavy
so she decided to use netting to face the ruffles.
"I knew it worked well on a tote that I just made.
It gave body without adding bulk."
She used a single layer of fabric for the ruffle
and serged it to the netting or tulleing.
Then she ran it through the differential feed
and found that it really worked well.
She writes, "I wanted more gathers
"so I serged it again with the differential feed
and I couldn't believe the ruffling effect I achieved."
First of all, let's talk about differential feed.
Here's a close-up on the serger of the feed dogs.
You can change the feeding of the differential feed
to bite more fabric.
Here it's at the tightest position.
As you serge
and use the differential feed at the same time
you will be able to create gathers.
So this is how Peggy created her ruffles.
She faced her ruffled fabric
serged the netting in place
then ran it through the serger once
with a four-thread stitch
then ran it through the second time.
This is the effect that was created.
A nice, ruffled edge using a four-thread overlock stitch
and a differential feed.
If you'd like to submit a hint or ask a question
send your hints and questions to:
Or, you can email me at:
If I use your hint, question
or your Creative Kindness submission on the air
I'll send you a copy of Sew with Confidence.
This is just the first program of our three-part series
on "Serge with Confidence."
Next time, I'll be back with the flatlock stitch.
How to do the basic settings
and its very decorative and functional ways.
Bye for now.
Nancy has written a full-color
128-page book entitled Serge with Confidence
which includes all the information
from this series, and more.
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To order the book, call 1-800-336-8373.
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