cc  >> John Shutske: I appreciate  everybody's patience.  Just a couple of quick  announcements.  We're going to go tonight for  about an hour in total.  And one of the things I'll let  you know, when we get done here  if you need to use the restroom  if you go up one flight of  stairs, there's both a men's and  a women's restroom on the second  floor of this building.  It's actually right up the  stairs and just look a little  bit over to your left.  The other thing I would just ask  everybody to do if you could  just shut down the volume on  your cell phone ringers so we  don't have any unexpected rings  during the conversation.  It's kind of an exciting night  for many of us.  We have, I think, five our six  days until it's the shortest day  of the winter, the fewest hours  of daylight hours so it's a  perfect night to have a lecture  on chocolate.  It will make everybody feel  good.  I guess I should introduce  myself. 

 I'm John Shutske.  I'm a relatively new member of  the administration here in the  College of Agricultural and Life  Sciences.  And I'm Associate Dean for  extension and outreach programs.  And this is one of our many  outreach programs that is  happening here within CALS this  winter.  So I'd like to welcome you to  the final lecture for fall 2009  CALS lecture series titled  "Wisconsin's Best."  As many of you know, many of you  have been here in the past, this  series focuses on Wisconsin food  products and the people that are  associated with those products  and are leaders either in  research or production.  This semester we've learned  about all kinds of cool things  like beef franks, beets and also  cranberries I believe was the  last lecture, and today or  tonight we're going to finish  with dessert.  We're going to be talking about  chocolate and compound coatings.  So I'm pleased to introduce  tonight's guest lecturer,  Rich Hartel.  And Dr. Hartel is a professor  here in Food Engineering, and  he's been with the Department  of Food Science since 1986  here at UW-Madison.  Dr. Hartel received his PhD  in agricultural and chemical  engineering from Colorado State  University, and after his PhD  he went to work for Eastman  Kodak as a research chemical  engineer. 

 Dr. Hartel is the University  of Wisconsin coordinator for  a two-week resident course on  candy, science and technology.  Sweet!  [LAUGHTER]  That's sponsored by the National  Confectioners Association.  Dr. Hartel teaches several food  processing classes and a  freshman career orientation  course.  So he's involved with all kinds  of students and also does a lot  of outreach for the industry.  His research focus is on  understanding and controlling  phase transitions in foods  including confections, candy.  Specific projects include  understanding and controlling  bloom formation in chocolate,  developing a science-based  approached to controlling sugar  crystallization in candy,  this is real cool stuff,  and studying moisture uptake  in sugar glasses, as well as  understanding how ice crystals  form in ice cream.  So it would be a pretty cool job  working in your lab.  So with that as an introduction,  please help me provide a warm  Wisconsin welcome  to Professor Rich Hartel.  [APPLAUSE]  >> Rich Hartel: I do have  a pretty nice job.  So I work on chocolate,  ice cream, candy. 

 It's pretty good.  You all have a candy bag and I  hope you haven't started working  on it yet.  Usually I have an admonition on  my first slide saying don't eat  it until I tell you.  But we're going to walk through,  chew through this bag of candy  and talk about some of the  different attributes of  chocolates and the  non-chocolates that are in there  as well.  So the title is Chocolate and  Compound Coatings, and you'll  see where I'm going with that  here in just a second.  So it's already time to eat  chocolate.  There's a Hershey Kiss in there  with your name on it.  Just one of them, we'll come  back to the other one.  So I want to start with a  tasting which is a classic  American chocolate,  the Hershey Kiss.  So go ahead and eat it. 

 Savor it.  It should bring up certain  images.  They say smell is a really  powerful memory recall.  The smell of the a Hershey's  Kiss, may bring back some  memories.  But how do you know that's  really chocolate?  Well it says it right there.  [laughter]  It says milk chocolate.  But not all things that look  like chocolate, taste like  chocolate and smell like  chocolate are really chocolate,  and that's what I want to talk  about.  So that Hershey's Kiss is what  we think of as a classic  American chocolate.  But we get a lot of things that  look like chocolate, taste like  chocolate and smell like  chocolate that aren't.  So in your bag you have a little  bag labeled A and a little bag  labeled B. 

 And so now we're going to test  your judgment.  I want you to taste each of  them.  So you just ate chocolate.  We know it's chocolate because  it said it right on the bag.  Here all I'm telling you  is it's A and B.  So we're testing your ability to  pick up what's chocolate and  which one is not chocolate.  And once we're done with this,  I'll explain why it's not  chocolate even though it looks  just as chocolaty as the other  one.  While you're doing that, I've  been asked to ask you to hold  the questions until the end.  However, I will ask people to  shout out comments and things  like that.  So at some point we're going to  do a vote on which is chocolate  and which is not chocolate. 

 So they both look like  chocolate.  They're both brown disks.  They both smell like chocolate.  And they both taste like  chocolate.  But only one of them is  chocolate.  So if you just walked in,  we're tasting A and B  in your candy bag.  So it's harder than it seems  when you don't have somebody  telling you what it is, right?  It's harder than it seems to  figure out which one is the real  chocolate and which one's not.  Does everybody got an opinion?  So it's fair to vote A, B,  or I don't know.  So people think A is chocolate,  raise your hand.  That means the rest think B is  chocolate?  Those that don't know?  There's a few of us that can't  tell. 

 A is the chocolate.  My point being here, that given  the right material you can't  tell the difference.  And there are some reasons for  why we might want to use what's  called compound coating.  So B is a compound coating,  A is a real chocolate.  And so what's the difference is  does it meet the standard of  identity or not.  So chocolate as a standard of  identity, it's written up in the  Code of Federal Regulations.  And there's a list of things  that you can find in chocolate.  And if there's anything other  than that in chocolate,  you can't call it chocolate.  You can call it all kinds of  things, but you can't call it  chocolate.  The typical chocolate between  real chocolate and compound  coatings or imitation chocolate  is the fat that it's made with. 

 So cocoa butter is the fat in  chocolate.  So if it's real chocolate, it  can only have cocoa butter?  Well, it can have milk fat too.  But cocoa is the only vegetable  fat that's allowed in it.  However, cocoa butter is what,  $2-$2.50 a pound, or something  like that, so it's  a pretty expensive ingredient  in chocolate, and I  can get a palm kernel oil  for 50-60 cents a pound.  So from a marketing standpoint,  from an economic standpoint, if  you can't tell the difference  and I can make it for a quarter  of the price, there's a lot of  reasons for sometimes having  compound coatings in our  products.  So chocolate has a standard of  identity.  There's a set of ingredients,  cocoa butter and butter oil are  the only two fats that can be  found in it.  If you find any other fat in the  chocolate, you can't call it  chocolate.  Now note in Europe they allow 5%  of a vegetable fat to be added.  So a couple countries like  England and Sweden, I think,  had this 5% rule, and then when  the EU came together they all  said let's go to the lowest  common denominator and everybody  can deal with what they want  to call it. 

 But they allow 5% of a vegetable  fat, and I actually heard a  British person get up and say,  well, the British chocolate  per capita consumption is much  higher than the American, and he  argued it was because of that 5%  vegetable fat that they could  manipulate the properties of the  chocolate so that it was more  desirable and people wanted to  eat it more.  So cocoa butter has good  characteristics, as we'll see  here in a bit, but we can  moderate those characteristics a  bit with some vegetable fat to  enhance the characteristics,  enhance the eating quality of  cocoa butter.  So cocoa butter and butter oil,  those are the two fats that you  can find.  Chocolate flavor can only come  from chocolate liquor.  And I'll explain what chocolate  liquor is here in just a minute.  So that's the only place where  chocolate flavor comes from.  Nutritive carbohydrate  sweeteners, that's sugar,  so actually I think you can use  sucrose and lactose now in  chocolate.  But if you make a sugar-free,  use Maltitol for example, then  technically is not a chocolate  even though the Hershey bar  says sugar-free chocolate.  Technically, they should call it  sugar-free chocolaty something  or other.  [LAUGHTER]  And not chocolate. 

 And then no other flavors can be  added.  We can add vanilla, that's the  only one that's allowed.  So things like B that look like  chocolate, taste like chocolate  and smell like chocolate but  aren't chocolate have a lot of  different creative names.  And a couple of them down here  are chocolate flavor,  chocolaty fudge.  I've got a couple of my samples  that I use for my classes.  So this is Santa Claus, right,  solid milk chocolate flavor.  [LAUGHTER]  And if you read the label it  says it's got sugar, partially  hydrogenated vegetable oil,  whey, cocoa, skim milk, lactose,  soy lecithin and artificial  flavors.  Looks like chocolate, smells  like chocolate, most of us eat  it like chocolate and it says  chocolate on the label,  but you've got to read  the fine print,  because it's not chocolate.  This one says it as well,  the Easter Bunny,  it's milk chocolate flavored.  Here's some chocolate-flavored  baking chips. 

 Here's another good one.  This is Santa Crisps,  Santa's Double Crisps.  But nowhere on here does it say  anything about chocolate.  It doesn't even bring up  the connotation.  Oh, I'm sorry it does.  It says chocolaty.  Chocolaty and smooth.  But again if you read the label  it says sugar, partially  hydrogenated vegetable oil,  whey, lactose, crisp rice.  So it's not chocolate.  It looks like chocolate, smells  like chocolate, we buy it and  eat it like chocolate but it's  not chocolate because it doesn't  meet the standard of identity,  and legally if it doesn't meet  the standard of identity it  shouldn't say chocolate. 

 It can say chocolaty or fudgy  but it can't say chocolate.  So we've looked at a couple of  these products.  You can find compound coatings  in a variety of places.  So it's pretty common to find  molded compound coatings.  So this probably cost $2,  whereas a solid pound of  chocolate might cost $3 or $4.  So they're charging a little bit  more on that.  These doughnuts here, I didn't  bring my doughnuts, but these  are coated with chocolaty type  stuff, but not chocolate.  There's the Santa Crisp,  Ding Dongs, the coating on there  is a chocolate compound coating  as well.  Sometimes the industry mixes the  terms.  So sometimes we call  real chocolate a coating,  so sometimes it gets confusing. 

 But as long as you understand  looking at the label if it  doesn't say chocolate on the  label, then it can't be real  chocolate.  So I'll read the label of a real  chocolate, Dove, and just so you  can see the difference.  So this is a semisweet chocolate  and it contains sugar,  chocolate, so I love  definitions, right, because I  learned in grade school never to  define something by what its  title is.  But the first ingredient  is chocolate.  But what they mean is chocolate  liquor, so that's the ground up  cocoa bean.  Again, we'll come to that in a  second.  Cocoa butter, milk fat, lecithin  and flavors, the vanilla flavor.  So basically the only thing  that's in here comes either from  the cocoa bean, sugar,  or milk fat.  That's all that's in this.  So you can read a label and  understand whether you're  dealing with chocolate or  compound coating. 

 It's pretty straightforward.  But now you have in your bag  another little baggy.  And this one's got both of them  in the same bag.  And it's not hard to pick out a  malted milk ball and a Raisinet.  And one of these is compound  coating and one of these is real  chocolate.  So now that you know what you're  looking for, can you pick out  which one is the real chocolate  and which one's not?  [INAUDIBLE]  Sorry?  [INAUDIBLE]  I still didn't hear.  >> We only have one bag.  Before we had A and B,  now we only have one bag.  >> Yeah, so one is a malted milk  ball and the other the Raisinet.  So eat one of each or eat both  of each, or all three. 

 If you can't tell with the first  bite, then go for the second or  third one.  So those are there for your  eating pleasure.  If you can't pick it up in the  first one, look for the second  one.  So what are you looking for  when you look for chocolate?  So go back to A and B, what did  you pick up when you said it was  chocolate or not chocolate?  So what was it about that  that gave you the inclination?  And can you pick things up in  this one?  Does one have more chocolaty  flavor?  Is one smoother in the mouth?  Does one melt better in the  mouth?  Does it give that chocolate  flavor release better than the  other one?  Can you pick it up?  Think so?  Everybody got an opinion?  So we'll do another vote.  So people that think the  Raisinet is real chocolate?  People that think  the malted milk ball?  Well, this one has a little bit  more skew on the side.  So until I tell you, of course  you don't know unless we read  the label.  So we'll start with  the Raisinets,  which say milk chocolate.  So most of you were right.  The Raisinets, milk chocolate.  There's no fine print. 

 It's just milk chocolate.  And the malted milk balls,  the original malted milk balls  naturally and artificially  flavored, Whoppers, doesn't say  anything about chocolaty, or  chocolate delight, or flavored  or doesn't say anything about  the chocolate characteristics.  And you'd think if it was real,  they would promote it  just like the Raisinets did.  And, again, if you don't believe  it you can go to the ingredient  list and you read sugar, whey,  partially hydrogenated palm  kernel oil, corn syrup, solids,  malted milk, wheat flour, milk,  salt.  Ingredients, not chocolate.  So if you can't tell by reading  the label, you can tell by  reading the ingredient list,  if you can't tell by tasting it.  So most of you got this one  right.  What gave that away?  Shout out.  >> Smoother.  >> Smoother. 

 [INAUDIBLE]  [LAUGHTER]  [INAUDIBLE]  You're right, but you can't see  the fine print.  So you could have the fine print  there.  But you're right it's up there  on the screen.  >> Less sweet.  >> Less sweet.  Okay.  >> The chocolate aroma.  >> Aroma.  So you got more chocolaty aroma  out of it.  >> Melts in your mouth. 

 >> You liked the way it melted  in your mouth.  We're going to get to  melt-in-the mouth in just a bit.  We'll talk more about that.  Other reasons for knowing that  the Raisinet was the real  chocolate?  >> The aftertaste is a little  more bitter.  >> So the aftertaste of this  was a little more bitter?  >> Yeah.  >> Interesting.  Interesting.  So there's a lot of factors  that go into flavor.  And remember, A and B,  most of you couldn't tell.  It was skewed a little bit more  towards the B, actually. 

 That was a compound coating that  came from a Wisconsin company,  a Madison company called  Clasen's Quality Coatings.  And they gave me their best  quality coating for you to  taste, and I paired it up  against an average chocolate.  So it was sort of a skewed test  because we went with a really  high quality compound coating  and an average chocolate.  So it was skewed towards that  chocolate coating more.  Now that we're into it, here's  what we're going to do.  So instead of starting out with  my agenda at the start.  So we've already done compare  and contrast but we're going to  do a little bit more of that.  So we're going to spend a little  bit more time talking about the  difference between chocolates  and coatings.  But I'm going to go through  where chocolate comes from, and  this is what I want you  to get out of this, right?  So, Bloom's Taxonomy.  The lower levels are just  knowledge and understanding. 

 And the higher levels here at  three and four is being able to  evaluate, analyze, synthesize,  so we're pushing you a little  bit in the compound coating  part.  But we're going to talk about  chocolate, where it comes from,  how it's made.  And I've got a couple of  different things we're going to  talk about from a nutrition  status to melting profiles,  to things like that.  So here's where chocolate  comes from.  Cocoa trees.  So this is a cacao tree  down near the equator.  So cocoa grows on trees and  these pods here inside those  pods are where the seeds are,  the cocoa beans are going to  come from inside that.  So they grow on trees, grow  within 15-degrees of the  equator.  The three primary sources  nowadays for cocoa beans are  Africa, so the Ivory Coast,  Ghana, cocoa beans are probably  the highest quality standard  that people use in the chocolate  industry.  Indonesia and Malaysia have a  growing cacao industry. 

 They have certain  characteristics that people  like.  And Brazil used to be the number  one producer but then a blight  came and wiped out their trees,  and they haven't quite  grown back up yet.  So South America is still a  pretty large producer but  nowhere near the quantity of the  African beans.  So most of our chocolate these  days comes from beans  with Ivory Coast or Ghana.  [INAUDIBLE]  No.  [LAUGHTER]  Because the camera wants that  light.  Sorry Tom.  So here's Ed, he used to be  the R&D director at Guitar  Chocolate, now works for M&M  Mars and allowed me to steal his  pictures.  But here's Ed happily showing  off a cacao pod on a tree.  So this pod has got the right  color. 

 So he's picked it out as a ripe  one ready for harvesting.  And harvesting is, once you see  the ripe pods on the tree,  harvesting is simply taking a  machete and chopping it off.  So it's still a hand-processed,  hand-harvested crop.  So she's chopping that pod off  the tree.  They then cut the pod in half  and inside there, that white  stuff is what we're going for.  Here's what it looks like  inside.  So this is half a pod down here.  These are the cocoa beans inside  the pod.  So these are the seeds of the  cacao tree.  If these fell on the ground  like an acorn,  a cacao tree would grow. 

 Surrounded by this mucilage  or white gooey stuff.  That's provides the nutrition  material for growth and  germination of that seed and  growth of the tree.  So that's what it looks like.  There's about, I don't know, 25  or 30 beans inside each one of  these pods.  I don't know how many beans it  takes to make a Hershey bar but  it's probably on the order of  five or six or something like  that, I'm guessing at that.  So it takes an awful lot of pods  here to make all the chocolate  that we produce and eat in the  world.  The beans are scraped out and  put into a pile, and allowed  to sit there for a week.  We call that fermentation.  So the process of the natural  microbial flora and whatever  enzyme activity comes from those  microorganisms, causes  fermentation of that white gooey  stuff.  I'll talk more about this  process because it's important  for the development of the  chocolate flavor. 

 So after a few days of  fermentation, then the beans are  spread out and dried.  So here's a tray on wheels so  they can push it back underneath  there if it starts to rain.  And the beans are dried down to  5%-6% water or something like  that.  So the commercial product of  interest is the cocoa bean.  Here's some examples of cocoa  beans.  You can't see it too well,  it's better on the picture.  And rather than pass it around,  I'll just leave it up here and  you can come up and see it later  on.  But this is the cocoa bean.  You can see that they're about  the size of almonds.  And this is what gets sent up to  the various places in the world  to get processed. 

 So it's rare that the  plantations where they grow the  cocoa beans actually process the  beans into chocolate.  Usually that's done in a  developed country, or Wisconsin,  or some place like that.  So the cocoa beans are what gets  sent up to places like  Clasen's Quality Coatings  here in Madison.  Nestle has a plant  in Burlington.  Wisconsin and chocolate.  Could you believe it?  Actually you have to say  chocolate and compound coating,  because Clasen's is a coating  manufacturer.  They do make some chocolate now  but it's primarily a chocolate  coating, imitation chocolate  manufacturer.  And they started, it's actually  Ralph Clasen, the guy that  started the bakery, the German  guy that started the bakery, and  he spun off this coating company  because I guess they were using  it on their baked goods.  And the coating company, they  sold it, I don't know maybe  10 years ago now, and it's just  grown by leaps and bounds.  So they have a plant out in  Middleton back behind their  bakery. 

 They have a new plant out in  Watertown, and then they've just  opened a research lab on the  east side of Madison.  So really, really growing  company for making compound  coatings, imitation chocolates.  ADM Cocoa used to be the old  Ambrosia factory in Milwaukee.  It's now owned by ADM,  they call it ADM Cocoa.  Makes both chocolate and  compound coating.  They have a really nice plant in  Milwaukee.  And they bring in the cocoa  beans and process it into the  chocolates and coatings that  they then would sell to a  company like Kellogg to put--  The elves buy it to put it  in their cookies, right?  [LAUGHTER]  There's another chocolate  company, Debelis is the name  of the company.  It's owned by a bigger, I think  it's a Belgian company.  Probably most of you haven't  heard of it.  It's fairly new in the industry. 

 But they're trying to build  their facility and they're down  here in Kenosha.  And then there's Andes Candies  which is actually a subsidiary  of Tootsie Roll, and those Andes  Mints, the green and brown ones,  are those chocolate or compound  coating?  You can't trust me anymore,  can you?  [LAUGHTER]  Those are compound coating.  If it's green,  it's not chocolate.  [LAUGHTER]  So the pastels, which Clasen's  makes a lot of are all compound  coatings because you can't make  a chocolate with that color.  Then it's got a coloring agent  that's not from cocoa.  So you can't make a pastel  chocolate.  So we actually have quite a bit  of the industry in Wisconsin.  And that's part of why I agreed  to do this talk was because  Wisconsin actually is a player  in the game in chocolates and  compound coatings.  So the cocoa beans would come  into the Ambrosia factory in  Milwaukee.  They'd get these beans in, they  used to get them in burlap sacks  and unload the burlap sacks. 

 And then they would go through a  series of processes to turn them  into chocolate.  So cocoa beans, that's the  starting point for making  chocolate.  To make chocolate, though, we  have to first get rid of the  shells.  So I've got some shells.  So about 15%-20% of the cocoa  bean is the shell part.  This usually just gets sold for  animal feed or mulch for a  garden.  That's about all the  applications we found for this  so far.  And what we're after is the  center part of that cocoa bean  called the nib.  So this is the center part,  it looks like that,  looks like that.  And this is what we're going to  grind up into chocolate liquor. 

 So chocolate liquor, you've  heard me say that term,  it's nothing more than ground up  chocolate cocoa nibs.  I don't know where the liquor  term came other than it's liquid  that comes from the solid  material.  But it's chocolate liquor or  sometimes it's called cocoa  mass, given a lot of different  names, but that's the basis for  making chocolate.  But it turns out if you just  grind this up, you can't make a  good chocolate out of it.  So we want chocolate to have a  little bit of sweetness so we  need to add sugar to it.  And actually if you look at most  of the American chocolates,  about half of a chocolate bar is  sugar.  So I read the Dove and it said  sugar is the number one  ingredient which means it's  there at the highest  concentration.  It doesn't have to be more than  half but it's at the highest  concentration.  So if I take this and mix half  as much, again, sugar in there,  then I've reduced this to half  of the total mass.  And this is about 50% fat. 

 And so if I add 50% sugar to it,  then the mixture only has 25%  fat, just divide it by four, and  that's not enough to make  chocolate.  So the reason we have solid  chocolate bars now is somebody  came up with the idea of taking  these, squeezing out the cocoa  butter and adding the cocoa  butter back and then you can  make chocolate with 32% fat.  So we grind it into chocolate  liquor, and then some of it  we're going to use to make  chocolate but some of it we've  got to take over and separate  out the cocoa butter, the fat,  that we can add back to the  chocolate liquor and sugar to  give us the right fat content  to give us a chocolate  that is what we're looking for.  The byproduct of cocoa butter is  cocoa powder.  Some people would argue that  that's not the byproduct, but  it's a product that's got a lot  of valuable uses.  And I'm going to finish with  this thought.  If you're looking for a health  kick from chocolate, eat cocoa.  And I'll explain that.  So chocolate liquor is the base  for it.  And in your bag you have another  little bag with a CL on it. 

 And I want you to take a nibble  of this.  [LAUGHS]  And I can see Tom's laughing  because he's taken my class and  he knows what this is like.  So this is chocolate liquor.  It's just ground up cocoa beans.  I do this demonstration for  high school kids a lot, and in  one group the teacher was out  parking the car, and he came  back in just after I finished  telling them to take a nibble  of this and they said,  "Mr. -- eat this."  [LAUGHTER]  So he got this big,  funny expression on his face  because it's really bitter.  That's chocolate liquor.  That's chocolate liquor.  It's actually the same thing  as baking chocolate,  baker's chocolate.  And, actually, Baker's Chocolate  is the name of a company.  It started in Boston,  it's still in Boston. 

 I think it was the first  chocolate company in the United  States.  This is Nestle but the Baker's  Chocolate is the traditional  unsweetened chocolate used for  baking.  And the name of the company was  Baker's Chocolate.  But that's what this is.  It's just chocolate liquor  molded into a bar and no  sweetening, it's not something  that you like to eat by itself.  However, the trend in chocolate  now is to push up the chocolate  liquor content into chocolates  to higher and higher levels.  So you see 70%, 80%, there's  some that are 90%, even 96%.  Which means only 4% is something  else like sugar and 96% is what  you just ate.  So you're pushing the limits.  But I guess it's like  drinking coffee,  drinking very tannic red wine,  so you build up a taste for  that kind of bitterness. 

 So not real good.  And until we process it into  something that's chocolate,  then that's what we live with.  So what's in chocolate liquor?  So grind up these nibs,  it's about half fat.  So I said about 50% fat but that  varies depending on the bean  that we get.  There's a little bit of water in  cocoa beans.  We've dried it down to 5% or 6%  but then during the process of  bringing it in, it dries out a  little bit more so it's still  got 2%-3% water.  The rest of it is what we call  cocoa solids which is really  cocoa powder.  Cocoa solids, cocoa powder,  after we've squeezed out the  cocoa butter.  And that's a bunch of starch,  fiber, gums, cellular structure  from the bean itself.  And then alkaloids. 

 That's one of the key elements  of chocolate that distinguishes  it from other things, and the  two alkaloids that we find are  theobromine.  Remember a slide that I had that  said theobroma cacao, food of  the gods?  That theobroma comes from this  chemical compound theobromine.  And it has certain physiological  characteristics just like  caffeine does.  Caffeine level in chocolate  is pretty small.  So when you eat chocolate, if  you eat a lot of chocolate at  night before going to bed and  you can't sleep, it's not the  caffeine, it's the theobromine  that's doing it.  And here's what the chemical  structure looks like.  They're both methylxanthine  compounds with almost exactly  the same chemical structure but  one's got a methyl group,  caffeine's got a methyl group,  and the theobromine is just a  hydrogen atom.  So very, very, very similar  chemical structures but very  different physiological  responses just from that  difference in that methyl group.  And here's a list of the  different things.  So we can compare coffee,  caffeine from coffee,  with theobromine. 

 So one is a strong intense  effect.  You get that right away.  Gentle, milder effect with  theobromine.  The time of duration is much  faster.  It clears out of your system  faster with caffeine than  theobromine does.  Increases alertness with  caffeine.  Increases well-being with  theobromine.  Increases emotional stress.  It's a mild antidepressant.  So it's no wonder eating  chocolate is a good thing for  us. 

 Maybe it's not addictive as  opposed to caffeine, and if  anybody wants to argue with me,  that's fine.  But from a strict medical, sense  theobromine is not addictive.  If you withdraw from caffeine,  you get headaches, you get  backaches, you get all kinds of  physical responses.  If you withdraw from chocolate,  it's a mental response, it's not  a physical response.  And I don't mean to put that  response down because it's  important to eat chocolate.  And so some of the same effects  between caffeine and theobromine  but on a much milder note with  theobromine.  So that's what gives chocolate  the characteristic.  It's a good food to eat.  We like it because it makes us  feel better.  Not only does it taste  wonderful, it also makes us feel  better. 

 And there really is a  physiological response to that  and it's theobromine that does  it.  However, don't feed it to your  dogs because dogs can't process  theobromine.  So don't feed your chocolate to  your dogs.  Why would you do that any way,  right?  So chocolate in the form that we  found it, that we like it now,  started only about 150 or so  years ago when somebody figured  out how to separate the cocoa  butter from the cocoa beans and  realized that they can add it  back and make something that was  a smooth tasting chocolate that  we like now.  So there's a number of factors  that go into it, of course, but  this is one of them.  And so in the chocolate that we  now, and you heard me read the  label before, it's chocolate  liquor and cocoa butter are the  two main ingredients from the  cocoa bean, add to that sugar,  if it's a milk chocolate you can  add milk, actually you can find  milk ingredients  in dark chocolate as well.  So there often is some milk fat  added to dark chocolate to  moderate the cocoa butter  properties.  And then lecithin, which is an  emulsifier, and vanilla.  And I don't think I have  anything else here about  lecithin so let me spend just a  bit about what lecithin is.  So usually on the a label  it says soy lecithin  or lecithin from soy. 

 And it's a byproduct from  refining soy bean oil.  So we extract the oil out of the  soy bean, comes with it some  gums, those gums are then  refined in the process.  And what separates out is  lecithin.  So actually lecithin is not a  single compound, it's a series  of phosphatidyl-type groups,  choline, inositol, and there's  one more and those make up  lecithin as a group  from the soy bean.  And what's unique about them and  why we use it in chocolate is  that it's got a hydrophobic part  and a hydrophilic part.  So in this, we have a liquid  cocoa butter.  So when we melt chocolate we  have a liquid cocoa butter  that's fat, and we have sugar  which likes to dissolve in  water.  So it's hydrophilic.  So it likes water.  Fats are hydrophobic, they hate  water. 

 So why would you put a sugar  particle into a fat when they're  at odds chemically?  Well, we can do it because we  can put lecithin in there.  So the hydrophilic part of the  lecithin molecule, the big  phosphatidyl group, sits on the  sugar crystal, and then the two  chains that make up the  hydrophobic part of lecithin  stick out into the cocoa butter.  And that allows sugar particles,  which really don't like being in  fat, to live in fat.  So it's like an emulsifier,  works like an emulsifier,  but on a solid particle,  not on an emulsion.  So that's why lecithin is in  there.  Mostly we add it as a viscosity  aid.  So liquid chocolate is important  to Ambrosia.  They want something that they  can pump around and do things  with.  And if it's too thick then it  doesn't pump so well.  So a little bit of lecithin goes  a long way in keeping those  particles apart and lowering the  viscosity. 

 So that's what's in chocolate.  To process chocolate, basically  mix sugar, milk powder and  chocolate liquor.  And these are particles that are  fairly big in size so we've got  to get them to a smaller size.  So it goes through a series of  rollers that crushes the  particles until what comes out  is something smaller than  20-25 microns or so.  And that's small enough that you  can't feel it in your mouth,  generally you can't feel it  in your mouth.  Then it goes into this conche,  and if you ever go to the  Ghirardelli factory they have  one of those longitudinal  conches, that's the roller on a  granite slab and that's really  just it.  Here we break the particles down  but they want to come back  together again because sugar  particles like each other better  than they like the fat, and in  the conche we help keep those  apart.  We also remove some water and we  remove some off flavors.  So a well-conched chocolate,  which sometimes take three days  to conche a good chocolate,  has a much smoother taste than a  chocolate that has just come out  of a refiner and is not conched  at all.  So conching is a sign of a high  quality chocolate, and good  chocolate makers conche for  days. 

 So then we've got, we add a  little bit more cocoa butter and  lecithin here to control the  viscosity of the chocolate.  Because how it pumps is how we  sell chocolate.  So a company that makes  Hershey's Kisses wants a  chocolate that's got a  high-yield stress.  It drops down out of a nozzle  onto a conveyor, and if it was  really liquid it would just flow  out into a puddle.  So they want it to hold up its  shape.  So viscosity there is really  important.  Actually, yield stress is what's  important in that.  So we have to control the  composition so give us that  viscosity.  So we might add less cocoa  butter and less lecithin to do  that.  Once we have that liquid  chocolate, then to get it into  the forms that we like, whether  the molded bar and enrobed candy  bar or panned goods like the  malted milk ball and the  Raisinets, typically we have to  temper the chocolate and that  means controlling the cocoa  butter so you get the cocoa  butter crystals in the right  form. 

 So cocoa butter is a polymorphic  fat, means it crystallizes in  five or six different crystal  forms.  Only one of them is what we want  in chocolate.  If you don't get it, then you  get this haze on the surface,  chocolate bloom.  And he introduced saying I work  on chocolate bloom.  And for hundreds of years we've  known what that's like, but  actually how we understand the  mechanisms and how to prevent it  is not so obvious.  So there's still a lot of  research left to be done.  And it comes down to controlling  the cocoa butter crystallization  process.  So that's chocolate.  Let's compare that to compound  coating.  We start with a little bit of  history first. 

 So we have chocolate  back in the mid-1800s.  Sorry.  I'm not coming through loud  enough.  So we're being taped for public  broadcasting.  So what you're listening to me  with is working fine, but the  other microphone, now I have  three, wasn't working as well,  I guess.  So somewhere back in the late  1800s somebody said, well, I can  make something that looks and  smells and tastes like chocolate  but is a lot cheaper.  So somebody business-wise came  up with this idea.  Probably somebody who was making  fats and oils for the margarine  industry and said, what else  can I use my products for?  And I said, well, if I through a  little cocoa butter in here, a  little bit of sugar in here, I  can make something that looks  and tastes a lot like chocolate.  And so we did.  And that was the birth of the  compound coating industry. 

 So you see cocoa powder.  Palm kernel oil is the typical  fat that we use in compound  coatings.  Sugar, milk powder, lecithin,  vanilla.  All the same characteristics in  compound coatings.  Process for making it is very  much the same.  We start out with fat, the  sugar, the cocoa powder and the  milk powder.  Add them together, grind it down  to small particle size.  We don't have to conche too much  for flavor.  Mostly the conche is for  viscosity control so we might  add some more fat and lecithin.  And what's unique about palm  kernel oil is we don't have to  worry about polymorphism, we  don't have to worry about  tempering. 

 You can just take that melted  compound coating, cool it down  and it crystallizes in the right  form on its own.  So life is good with that.  So if you're making chocolates  at home, if you use cocoa butter  in real chocolate, you have to  be careful that you get it  tempered otherwise you're going  to have all these whites spots  on it the next day.  But if you use imitation, that  compound coating like that  sample B that you tasted, you  can just cool that and it will  look perfect and taste nice and  it will be very, very easy to  use.  So another advantage of that  compound coating, that palm  kernel base coating, is you  don't have to process,  the tempering process.  So let's look at the structure  of chocolate.  Again, it's about 30% to 35%  fat, whether that's cocoa butter  or palm kernel oil.  Most of the rest of it is  particles.  So there's sugar particles.  There's cocoa powder particles. 

 There's milk powder particles.  So chocolate, when you melt  chocolate and pour it, it's  really a dispersion of a lot of  particles, really small  particles, less than 20 microns  or so in liquid fat.  Looks sort of like this, right?  So the things with sharp edges  are the sugar particles that are  fractured when they compress.  And the more amorphous ones are  the cocoa powder which kind of  smush when you compress them.  But then when we crystallize,  when we temper and set the  chocolate, the fat crystallizes.  So this yellow fat phase in the  liquid actually crystallizes  and about three-quarters  of the cocoa butter,  at room temperature, about  three-quarters of the cocoa  butter is crystallized.  So that's, liquid flows solid  gives us a nice snap in  chocolate.  Due to the fact that we have the  cocoa butter crystals.  There's a little bit of water  associated with the sugar  crystals.  And here I do talk about the  lecithin and its effect on the  interface. 

 So we mentioned this part  already.  So that's the structure of  chocolate.  Want to see it in a really cool  microscope?  So here's a confocal microscope  image of chocolate,  melted chocolate.  And this is done, if you know  what a confocal microscope is  it's a very sophisticated light  microscope that focuses the  light beam to a small plain and  avoids any other light from  outside of that plain so you get  a nice focal point, and you can  actually look down into a  material but it's based on  fluorescence of the dye.  This guy, Mark Auty, in Ireland,  put dyes, different dyes into  the chocolate, different dyes  that went either to the protein  or the milk powder, the sugar or  the fat phase and then excited  them at different wavelengths  and took three different images  and then made a composite image  in three different wavelengths.  So you can see the milk powder  particles that are stained with  this bright green color.  The solid particles here, the  black ones, are primarily sugar  particles but sometimes they're  also, it was hard to distinguish  with cocoa solids.  The reddish ones, and you can  see a few reddish ones in there,  are cocoa solids.  So black can either be sugar  crystals or cocoa solids.  And the blue is the liquid fat. 

 So it kind of looks like that,  doesn't it?  Kind of.  So that's what chocolate is, is  a bunch of particles surrounded  by fat.  And that's what we have for  chocolate.  I've been talking too much,  time to eat.  [LAUGHTER]  You have a Lindt chocolate  in there, 70%.  So what is 70% cacao mean?  So it means that 70% of what's  in this bar came from the cocoa  bean itself.  Whether that's cocoa solids or  cocoa butter separately.  So it's in a bag with  a Hershey bar.  And so grab the--  It's in a bag with two chunks.  So one, the Hershey bar,  says Hershey  or part of Hershey on it. 

 And the other one is just a  shard of Lindt that when you cut  this one it's so hard that it  just fractures into these  shards.  So I just put some shards in  there.  So taste the 70%, the Lindt  chocolate.  And it's somewhere between  what we think of as a regular  chocolate and chocolate liquor.  So this is a good baking  chocolate, but if you're  interested in a nice eating  chocolate this is a really good  eating chocolate as well.  70% cocoa, it's really  chocolaty.  It means that only less than 30%  of that is sugar.  And compare that with the other  product in the bag is a Hershey  Special Dark.  And that's this bittersweet.  So I'm stuck on dark chocolates  today. 

 I hope you don't mind.  These are better for you too.  The polyphenols are in here,  not in the milk chocolate.  So this is the special bitter.  And I'll read you the label.  So first ingredient is sugar,  second ingredient is chocolate,  which they mean chocolate  liquor, cocoa butter, milk fat,  lactose, soy lecithin and  vanillin, artificial vanilla.  So the fact that this has more  sugar in it than chocolate  liquor tells you it's not 70%,  it's less than 50%.  Whereas this one has chocolate  the number one ingredient,  sugar is number two, and  cocoa butter is number three.  So it's got a lot of the cocoa  bean in this.  70% of it is from the cocoa  bean. 

 This is less than 50%.  And that's okay.  I think the minimum is something  like 12%.  So it doesn't take a lot of  cocoa bean to make something  that's chocolate.  And then to round out that  flavor comparison I want you to  taste the Dove.  Which is an M&M Mars product.  And what I'm having you look for  here is the difference in taste,  that's part of what we're  looking for is the difference in  taste.  The Dove bar has the same  ingredient list basically as the  Hershey bar.  So it's sugar, chocolate liquor,  and so on down the line.  So it's less than 50% cacao as  well. 

 But they have very different  flavors, don't they?  Every chocolate has a very  different flavor.  This is a list of things that  cause that flavor to be  different.  One is the cacao content.  So if you have 70% cocoa bean in  there, obviously it's going to  carry more of the flavor of the  cocoa bean than a 40%,  or 30% chocolate.  So that's one effect that you're  going to find.  But here's the rest of the  effects.  And I'll walk through these  pretty fast.  I've got a couple things I want  to say about fermentation and  roasting but that's about it.  So actually there are three  different types of cocoa beans.  So not surprisingly it's a  natural tree and comes in some  different species. 

 And so depending on which of  these beans we use in the  chocolate and what blends we  make with that and where the  beans come from, so it's just  like grapes into wine, where the  beans come from, how the growing  season was when they were  harvested, all impacts  the ultimate flavor  of the chocolate.  Now we're starting to see a  variety of chocolates out there  just like we see vintage wines.  So you can find chocolates that  are made from a single source  bean, Costa Rican bean,  Ecuadorian bean, and they have  very distinct characteristics.  So that's one thing.  Most companies buy blends of  beans because they're looking  for a specific flavor.  So when you buy a Lindt bar  they're trying to make that  Lindt bar taste the same  everywhere, every time.  And they're looking for beans,  even though it's a natural  agricultural material that  varies from season to season,  from place to place, they're  looking for a mixture that gives  that same flavor time after  time.  So is Hershey's, so is Mars.  The fermentation and drying  steps actually have a very  unique characteristic  contribution to the flavor.  As does roasting, that's where  most of the flavor comes from. 

 We can do alkalization to change  the pH, and that changes the  flavor as well.  If we're talking about a milk  chocolate, the type of milk  processing can change the flavor  as well.  And then conching changes it as  well.  So let's talk about the flavor  introduction in fermentation.  So fermentation, again this is  just a pile of beans with that  mucilaginous goo allowing the  natural microbial population to  do their job and to break down  that mucilage.  So the fermentation, is first,  it breaks down that  mucilaginous goo.  That's the substrate for the  microorganisms to grow on.  Because of the heat that's  generated in the fermentation  process, within a day the  germination process is stopped.  Those are seeds but we don't  want them to germinate.  We want them to sort of go part  of the way and then stop, and  that's what happens in the  fermentation process. 

 But what's most important is  that this is where the flavor  precursors are generated.  So what my bud Ed says is that  if you were to taste chocolate  from cocoa beans that were not  fermented, it would give a new  meaning to the word astringent.  So it's really, really bitter.  And the reason for that is the  polyphenols that are in there.  Those are very bitter materials.  And in the fermentation process  we get rid of most of those  polyphenols.  That's not good, right, because  polyphenols are why we eat  chocolate.  So the yeast convert sugars to  ethanol.  So there is actually an alcohol  process.  But that ethanol quickly gets  converted to acetic acid and CO2  and hydrogen. 

 So there's very, very little, if  any, alcohol or ethanol left in  the fermentation of the beans.  The enzymes carry with them,  sorry, the microorganisms carry  with them enzymes, of course.  And here's the things that  happen.  So there's a lot of sucrose in  that mucilage, and it gets  broken down into glucose and  fructose by the invertase  enzyme.  We have glycosidases that break  down the glycosides into sugars.  Proteases that make peptides in  amino acids.  Here's the polyphenol  oxidase-type materials,  polyphenol oxidase  that breaks them down into--  I'm sorry this tab is--  So it's polyphenol oxidases  that break down polyphenols  into things like quinones,  and things like that.  So it's breaking down the  polyphenols which are the things  that are now claimed as healthy  in chocolates, but that's being  broken down in the fermentation  process.  And so in the fermentation step  that's where we generate the  precursors, primarily the  reducing sugars and the peptides  for the Maillard browning  reaction that happens in  roasting.  So just like in coffee bean  roasting, we expose the beans to  very high temperatures and we  get mostly the Maillard browning  reaction occurring which is the  reaction between, well here's  the cell, the reaction between  the reducing sugars and proteins  that leads to, it's actually a  really complex set of reactions  named after this French chemist  who kind of understood,  first developed this reaction. 

 But ultimately where we get to  are the darker colors and the  flavors.  Other flavors that are  responsible from Maillard  browning are toast.  So when you toast your bread  the brown colors and flavors,  that's Maillard browning.  Roasting coffee beans is  Maillard browning.  And then probably the number one  is making caramel.  So when you add milk to sugar  and cook them you've got protein  source in the milk, you've got  reducing sugars and you get a  caramelization that gives you  colors and flavors.  What's different between  caramels and chocolate are the  precursor molecules that are  there.  So you wind up with a different  stream of the complex reactions  that give you a very different  chemical composition.  So the point I'm trying to make  here is that there's a ton of  things that go into making up  the flavor of chocolate, and in  fact if you took, so here's a  quote from a chocolatier, if you  took every chemical in the Merck  index and mixed them all  together at some level, you'd  have something that looks like  chocolate and smells a little  like chocolate but you probably  wouldn't want to eat it.  His point being that the  chemical structure of chocolate  flavor is so complex, 400 or 500  different components contribute  to that flavor, sometimes at  parts per billion levels. 

 So because of that, it's been  very difficult for flavor  companies to provide an  imitation chocolate flavor that  does justice to the real thing  because it's so complex.  So were there flavor differences  between those samples?  Bitterness, the chocolate-type  flavor.  There's other aspects of  chocolate flavor like creaminess  as well.  But the chocolate flavors were  different, again each company is  picking out beans and process to  give the flavor that they want  you to taste time and time  again.  And they go out of their way to  be consistent and make the same  thing time after time.  Could you pick up any difference  in melting profile of those  chocolates?  Did one seem to be a little bit  higher melting waxier than  others?  Yeah?  So is that because of wax?  Did I read wax on any of these  labels?  No.  So there are differences, but  now I want you to do the last  things, and you've got three  samples in your bag that are  white chocolate with different  numbers on it.  And I want you to start out  with the 092  then go 097 and then 102.  And what we're looking for here  is does it melt in your mouth or  not.  Is it soft, is it hard, do you  have to chew it to get rid of  it. 

 While you're doing that, let me  explain what white chocolate is.  So white chocolate is everything  in chocolate except for the  chocolate liquor.  But that's what chocolate is,  right?  So in a real chocolate it's just  cocoa butter, sugar, milk  powder, lecithin and vanilla,  and that's what's in a standard  milk chocolate.  A milk coating would be palm  kernel oil, sugar, milk powder,  vanilla and lecithin.  And you're eating milk coatings,  not chocolates.  These were made special for me  by Clasen's.  I asked them to construct this  exercise for you.  And what we're looking for  is how does this melt in your  mouth, how does this release  flavors.  So if you look at chocolate and  you've tasted a few of them now,  what would you say its profile  is at low temperatures,  at room temperature?  It's hard, right?  So the amount of fat that's  crystallized would be pretty  high.  So at low temperatures, room  temperature, somewhere in the  80% to 85% of the fat is in  solid form, crystalline form. 

 There's still a little bit of  liquid fat in chocolate even  though it feels really hard and  the snap is important but  there's still a little bit of  liquid fat there.  But at low temperatures we're  looking for something that's 80%  to 90% solid.  But then we want the fat to melt  within a very short narrow  temperature range of about  10-degrees so that by 90 most of  it's gone, most of it's melted.  And if not, if it doesn't melt  in your mouth, then you wind up  with a waxy after taste.  So what we want from a  chocolate, from the fat in a  chocolate, is that it's hard at  room temperature, so it has that  nice snap, and that it melts  quickly over a 10-degree range  of temperatures and then it's  gone in your mouth.  And there's all that flavor  release that comes out of the  chocolate as it melts in your  mouth.  And this is what cocoa butter  is.  It's one of the most unique fats  in the world because it has this  melting property, and it also  releases all of these wonderful  flavors into our mouth when we  eat chocolate.  However, not all fats are the  same and we'll get to that here  in just a second.  So there is no wax in chocolate. 

 Here's the definition of  paraffin.  It's got a melting point  of 47- to 64-degrees centigrade.  So that's well above your mouth  temperature which is about  34 centigrade.  So body temperature is 38.7,  but mouth is open so it's a  little bit lower in your mouth.  So we need a fat that's going to  melt at temperature less than  body temperature  or mouth temperature.  And so if you add wax to a  chocolate, well, here's these  nickel wax bottles  or the wax fangs.  That's what it's like,  eating paraffin.  So nobody puts wax in their  chocolates.  Maybe if you're making chocolate  at home and you want it to set  quickly without tempering it,  then maybe you'll add some wax  to it and it's kind of a  cheating way of getting it to  set up.  But it very much changes the  eating characteristics. 

 So what did you get out of that?  There was an 092, an 097 and a  102.  And if you're thinking like I  do, 92-degrees Fahrenheit is the  melting point.  97-degrees Fahrenheit  and 102-degrees Fahrenheit.  So with that 102,  you should still be chewing it.  Because it's well above your  mouth temperature,  melt temperature, so it's not  going to melt in your mouth.  If you want to get rid of it,  you've got to chew it.  But the 92 probably should have  just disappeared.  Those three chocolates that we  tasted might have had different  melting points but that's  because different cocoa butters  have different melting profiles  as well.  So here's a standard Malaysian  butter, it's a hard butter with  a higher melt point.  I personally think Godiva has a  waxy aftertaste, but I know they  don't add chocolate wax to their  chocolate. 

 I suspect that they use a  Malaysian cocoa butter.  And that pushes the melting  point up.  It's good if you're in a warm  environment, but if you're cold  or you drink something cold and  then eat our chocolate you're  going have to chew that  chocolate to get it to go down.  Brazilian cocoa butters are  really soft and the Ivory Coast  is in between.  But you're eating compound  coatings, and those were made  from palm kernel oil that were  hydrogenated to shift the  melting profile to different  melt points.  So here's palm kernel oil, the  natural melting point.    So oils, usually they're liquid  at room temperature but you've  got to define room temperature.  So here in Wisconsin room  temperature is a lot less  than in Malaysia.  So in Malaysia palm kernel oil  is an oil, it's liquid at room  temperature.  But here in the US it's solid,  it's melting point is above our  room temperature, but just by  a little. 

 But by itself it's not good  enough for chocolate because it  doesn't have a high enough solid  fat down here to give us a snap  and it's too soft and melts too  quickly in the mouth.  So we partially hydrogenate it  and shift that melting profile  up.  So mostly we sell these palm  kernel oils based on melting  points.  And we had a 92 and a 102 and  then a 97 in the middle.  And the trade-off here is  does it melt in your mouth, or  is it good for a really hot day.  So the application of those  coatings would be very  different.  And those are standard coatings  for Clasen's, and they would  sell them to customer who was  making products with different  attributes in mind.  So very different melting  profiles.  Again the ultimate point here is  that no chocolate companies put  wax in their chocolates, and if  you have to chew it, if it feels  like it's not melting in your  mouth either your mouth is too  cold or they used a Malaysian  cocoa butter.  So a couple more slides then  we're done. 

 I couldn't get by without saying  whether chocolate's  good for you or not.  Nowadays everybody wants to eat  chocolate because it's good for  you.  Well, here's a good joke for why  to eat chocolate because it's a  vegetable, right?  [LAUGHTER]  But the real reason for eating  chocolate nowadays is all the  benefits of eating flavonols.  So these flavonols, particularly  what's found in chocolate are  epicatechin is the main flavonol  that's found in chocolate and  cocoa beans.  And it's been found to be an  antioxidant, it's good for  vascular health, it opens your  blood vessels and gives you  blood flow and supposedly  reduces cholesterol and LDL  levels.  So all these things are really  good for you, so you should eat  more chocolate.  Here's the deal though,  cocoa beans start out at 15%  flavonols, that's a huge level  of polyphenols in the cocoa bean  which is why if you eat cocoa  chocolate liquor by itself  it's really bitter because  it's there at high quantities.  Fermentation breaks down  most of it.  So out of the 15%,  we're down to 3%.  When we roast it we get rid of  more so we're down to 2% to  2.5% in the roasted bean itself. 

 Then we've got to make  chocolate.  So it's better to eat cocoa  powder because once you press  out the cocoa butter there's no  flavonols in the cocoa butter,  and they're all concentrated  back in the cocoa powder.  And so cocoa powder  is 4% to 5% flavonols.  So the guy that gave me this  information makes Hershey's  cocoa powder, and he says  don't eat a chocolate bar  at night, just have  a couple spoonfuls of Hershey's  cocoa powder, and you're  getting the flavonols  that you're looking for.  So again if we end here with the  chocolate liquor now we're going  to add 50% sugar to it.  So it's diluting those flavonols  down to less than 1% in a normal  chocolate bar.  So yeah chocolate's good for us  because it has the flavonols  in it, but compared to eating  raw cocoa beans we're really  diluting that level.  If you're really interested in  getting the health benefits  without the side effects of  calories then just go to the  cocoa powder.  So in summary, what I've done  is talked about where chocolate  comes from, compared the  standard of identity,  chocolate versus coating.  We talked about how it's made. 

 I talked a little about flavor  and melting properties.  And if you'd like to, you can go  back to that last Hershey Kiss  that's in that bag and get the  taste of that 102 white coating  out of your mouth--  [LAUGHS]  with a real chocolate,  now that we know  that it is a real chocolate.  And with that, actually  we're not going to open  to questions yet.  So we're all done.  [APPLAUSE]