cc  >> Welcome to another edition of  "History Sandwiched In" at the  Wisconsin Historical museum.  Today, June is dairy month!  June is dairy month, and to  celebrate that, we're gonna have  a program on the best dairy  product ever, and that's ice  cream.  Some of you already know it  because you're tasting it right  here.  We have today, as our speaker,  Bill Klein.  He's actually the production  manager at Babcock Hall, the  makers of the best ice cream in  America' Dairyland or anywhere  else.  He's gonna talk about producing  ice cream, flavors, and all  kinds of things.  So please welcome to the museum  Bill Klein.  (applause)  >> Bill Klein: Thank you.  I want to start by telling you  all that this ice cream that  you're eating right now is what  I call a "reward food," so that  when you go to work every day,  or whatever you do every day, if  you do it well and you're a good  person and you work hard all  day, ice cream is something that  you reward yourself with at the  end of the day and your goal is  to have ice cream every single  day, just a small amount, but  every single day.  (laughter)  My name is Bill Klein,  I manage the Babcock Hall  dairy plant. 

 I'm gonna describe to you today  how we make ice cream, a little  bit about history of ice cream,  and you're gonna ask some  questions, so hopefully by the  end of the next half hour or so,  you'll walk out of here with  some knowledge that you didn't  have beforehand.  If I don't explain it to you,  then feel free to ask me the  question and I'll do my best to  answer it.  There's gonna be a video that  we're gonna run in a second  here, and that's just gonna run  while I'm talking, it'll be kind  of the background thing, but  that's the video of the Babcock  dairy plant, it kind of shows  step by step of the process of  ice cream making, starting with  the raw tank coming in as you  see right here.  All right.  Again, I manage the Babcock  dairy plant, the Babcock Hall  dairy plant has been in  existence since 1951 and we make  a whole variety of products.  One of them is ice cream.  Ice cream is by far the most  complicated product that we  make.  There's so many different  ingredients and so many  processes along the way.  And not only that, but it's the  handling of the ice cream that  becomes very critical, all in an  effort to make the highest  quality ice cream.  But ice cream, was it ever  invented?  It really wasn't, it kind of  just came to be. 

 It's a product that started with  ice and some flavor and then  somewhere around the 1600s they  added cream to it so they took  cream and some ice and then they  added some sugar to it, and then  it slowly evolved.  But really in the United States,  in the 1800s is when it really  got off the ground, and that's  when it actually came into  production.  It all started in  1820-something, where they took  those basic ingredients and put  it into a container with some  kind of a scraper blade and with  a hand crank on it and turned it  into something that appeared to  be like ice cream.  But you can go from that to what  you're eating right now and a  whole range in between to  produce different types and  varieties of ice cream.  But in the end, what you've got  there in front of you is cream,  you've got sugar, and you got  ice crystals and it's cold, and  people like that combination  especially in the summertime,  that's something that works very  well.  Some time in the 1920s is when  they took the batch freezer and  turned it into a continuous  churn, and that's when it went  continuous, from a batch style  where they make two or three  gallons at a time to when they  turn it on and it runs all day  long, a --- full of ice cream,  which is what we have in our  operation.  That's when it really came full  force, and it was sometime right  around after World War II, was  when people started eating 20  quarts of ice cream per day,  which was really a high water  mark, and that's when it really  took off and became real  popular.  There's 1. 6 billion  gallons of frozen  dairy products consumed every  year in the United States.  About 9% of all the fluid milk  that's produced is converted  into frozen dairy products.  Wisconsin's not a real big  producer of ice cream, actually  it's not even in the top ten in  the United States, but we  certainly produce a lot of milk,  lots of milk here in Wisconsin. 

 We have a lot of cows,  1.3 million cows and so at the  Babcock dairy plant, one of the  things we do is produce ice  cream.  And our formulation since '51  has never changed.  It's the same basic formula.  Obviously, flavors change every  year, but the basic formula has  not changed.  Why do we call it Babcock?  There's a guy named Steven  Babcock, back in 1890, he came  to Madison and he worked as a  professor.  And one of the issues back then    was, when the raw milk came in,  they had to have a way to  identify it as good quality raw  milk.  And sometimes the milk was  diluted with water or sometimes  the protein level wasn't at  where it should've been, so they  tried to find a way to  standardize it, to figure out  what it was that they had.  So he invented a test called the  Babcock Test.  It's simply a test that measures  the fat content.  He used different chemicals,  sulfuric acid is the main  chemical. 

 But it was a way to identify it  as high quality milk.  Since then, the standards for  milk, a lot of emphasis has been  put on protein, and especially  on bacteria levels.  Milk fat is obviously still  tested, but we put a lot more  emphasis now on freshness and  quality and low bacteria  numbers.  In fact, Babcock dairy still  uses that Babcock Test today.  To change that test, to go  through higher-priced equipment,  some of this equipment is  anywhere between $80,000 and  $100,000 just for a real quick  test.  So we still use the Babcock  Test, and that works good for  us.  How do we make ice cream?  There's so many different types  of ice cream.  Ice cream in and of itself, at  least in the United States, has  certain standards.  It has to at least have 10%  milkfat.  It has to have somewhere between  6% and 11% milk solids, not fat. 

 It has to have a certain amount  of air added to it.  Ice cream, in order to be called  ice cream, it cannot have more  than 100% overrun, and I'll tell  you what that overrun means in a  second.  But the first, very important  ingredient for ice cream  production is milk, and what you  always want to emphasize, in any  dairy operation, is good quality  raw milk.  In other words, it should be  fresh.  Generally speaking, what you  want to do at these dairy plants  is, when you bring in milk  today, you process that milk  tomorrow, or within 24 hours.  By law, it has to be within 72  hours.  But it makes a real big  difference to do it as soon as  possible.  So we bring our raw milk into  our dairy plant and first thing  we do is separate it out into  cream, we take the cream portion  away from the skim portion.  Skim is the heavier portion, the  cream is the lighter portion.  We do that with what's called a  separator. 

 And it separates it out, and  then we run a test on that cream  and make sure to learn what we  have for the test.  In most cases, it's about 31%  milkfat.  And then we run a formulation  for ice cream mix.  We know that in our formula we  want 12%, so we have a computer  software that we tell it what we  have for milk, what we have for  cream, what we have for milk  solids, usually it's this  powder, well, that's sugar right  there.  We give all the components to   the computer, we tell it what we  have for ingredients, it then  converts it into a formula that  will produce an ice cream mix  that is 40% total solids, 12%  milkfat, and about 11% milk  solids, not fat.  In addition to it, we add sugar  to it, obviously, which is what  we were just adding.  We add 17% sugar.  So know that most ice cream is  generally about 15% to 17%  sugar.  Now, there's different types of  sugar that we can add to it.  You can add corn sweetener,  which, most of the ice cream out  there contains corn sweetener. 

 A lot of ice cream is just  straight cane sugar.  And there's different reasons  for adding different types, some  sweeteners give you more body,  more solids, and less of a  sweetener effect, therefore, you  have to add more of it.  Other sugars like straight sugar  gives you that real pure, clean  sweetness effect.  Let me kind of fast forward to  describe what we're at right  now.  This process that we're doing on  the video is pasteurization.  So after we take all these  ingredients and we blend them  together into a liquid mass,  whether it's the sugar, the  nonfat dry, the cream, the  stabilizer, the emulsifier, we  blend it all together into this  liquid and then we run it  through what's called a  pasteurizer.  That's the heart and soul of any  dairy plant.  Everything we run through our  plant is in fact pasteurized.  What that's doing is, that's  gonna heat very quickly, it  heats that mix up to about 183  degrees.  So it's hot. 

 And then it very quickly cools  it back down, we hold it at that  temperature for at least 15  seconds.  What that's doing, and this  panel here describes, it records  all that's happening on this  pasteurizer right here.  But it heats it up, and what  it's doing is, it's killing the  bacteria.  And we generally kill, through  this process, 95% of all  bacteria, so it doesn't  sterilize, so it's killing only  95% of all bacteria, but it  kills 100% of all the  disease-causing bacteria.  And under those conditions, that  happens.  So that's our goal, we want to  make that a safe product coming  out.  Okay, so that's the  pasteurization effect.  Now in addition to that, in the  same system here, we have what's  called a homogenizer.  And it homogenizes all the mix,  or all the milk, anything we run  through that equipment is gonna  be homogenized.  What that's doing is, it breaks  up the fat globules that are in  the mix. 

 Raw milk has fat globules and  it's measured in microns, and  it's generally about 15 microns.  But in fact, through really high  pressure and shooting that mix  against a stainless steel  surface, it explodes the fat  globules into real small  particles.  Why's that important?  What it does is, it increases  the surface area, which turns  those little fat globules, which  are now ten times smaller but  many more of them, it increases  that surface area so that those  fat globules will not come back  together again.  And that's a real important part  in ice cream making.  When I get to the freezer barrel  part of it, you'll see that it's  critical that fat globules and  the air cells and ice crystals  are all arranged correctly in  order to produce a real smooth  ice cream product.  Okay, so now it's coming out of  that pasteurizer and it was  heated up to 183 and now it's  cooled very quickly back down  again.  And we need to take that mix,  and we send it into a vessel,  that's the homogenizer here.  We send that ice cream mix to a   vessel, and it has to cure.  So we cool that down and we hold  it at no greater than 40  degrees, generally between 35  and 40 degrees.  And that's critical again to  keep bacteria from growing. 

 During that curing process, in  our case, we store it for 24  hours at least, but it's got to  be a minimum of 4 hours, what's  happening is, all the particles  in there, all the solid  particles in there are  hydrating.  Including the stabilizer, it's  all absorbing as much free water  in that mix as possible.  And it takes a period of time to  do it, and that's the curing  process.  In addition to that, the fat  crystals that are in that mix  are actually crystallizing, by  going through the pasteurizer,  it goes into a liquid state, and  it takes a number of hours to  actually crystallize all of  those fat globules.  And again, that's very important  in ice cream production.  Now, fast forward to the next  day, we take that ice cream mix  and we put it into a flavor vat.  And we have to add a number of  flavors to that ice cream mix to  produce whatever we're looking  for.  Any liquid flavors or any liquid  colors are added prior to the  freezing operation.  That's what we're doing right  here.  Again, that mix is about 36  degrees at this point, and keep  in mind, that mix is 12%  milkfat, 40% total solids. 

 We have a quality control  operation set up so we make sure  all those specifications are  met.  It has to be met.  If it's not, we send it right  back to the processors to have  them redo it again.  Because it's at this stage here  where it's also tested for  bacteria.  If there's any undesirable  bacteria at this stage, we start  all over again.  We don't go any further at this  point.  The quality control is a  critical part of any dairy  plant.  Every year it becomes more and  more important, it seems.  So we make sure at this point  that specifications are exactly  as we want it, and then we  proceed.  We take over at this stage here,  a certain amount of mix, the ice  cream maker will put together  his own formula, depending on  what flavor he's making. 

 It calls for X amount of gallons  of ice cream mix, it'll call for  X amount of color or cookie  dough, background flavor or  butter pecan flavor, whatever it  might be at this stage.  So at this point here, he's  gonna, he's got his small flavor  here as well.  He'll start running it through  the ice cream maker.  Ice cream freezers have evolved  quite a bit especially in the  last 20 years.  Completely computer operated,  the ice cream maker knows  exactly what's going on inside  that barrel.  We, obviously, can't see inside  that barrel, it's a stainless  steel barrel, but inside that  barrel, you'll see a picture of  some blades here in a second.  Inside that barrel is a series  of scraper blades, and what  happens is, as we pump that ice  cream mix into the end of the  barrel, there's Freon on the  outside of that barrel, and  that's pulling the energy out of  it.  Starts off at about 36 degrees,  it'll come out of that barrel at  about 21 degrees.  At 21 degrees, the moisture, or  the water in the ice cream mix,  and ice cream is about 60%  water, the water of that mix  will start to crystallize.  And that's gonna be our goal, to  develop as many small ice  crystals as possible. 

 In addition to those ice  crystals, we're also injecting  air into the system.  And that air has to wrap around  the ice crystals and it has to  wrap around the fat globules  that are in that whole mixture.  And I'll show you some slides in  a minute so you can get a better  example of what it looks like.  There's lots of slides of an  electron microscope of ice cream  really close.  And so at that point, that ice  cream is pumped out of that  barrel, so there's a pump that  draws it in, there's a pump that  draws it out, and they have to  be in harmony, because we add a  certain amount of air to ice  cream mix.  And that air  is termed "overrun."  At our operation we run at 80%  overrun, which means we put in  one gallon of mix and 1.8  gallons of ice cream comes out.  That 0.8 gallons being air.  And that's that fluffiness.  And depending on what you like,  some ice creams are maybe 30%  air, so it's real dense, real  thick.  And some ice creams are closer  to 100% air. 

 And that air is just a matter of  texture.  I would argue that that air is  actually a good thing, because  it allows you to taste it  nicely, and it's not as filling,  and some of the frozen products  out there that are not called  ice cream, but you'll see some  frozen products on the market  now that run up to close to  120%, maybe 130% overrun.  So it's real fluffy.  So we pump that ice cream out of  those barrels, and then it has  to go through another machine.  And that machine will  incorporate ingredients, I don't  think it showed it yet, but in  this case, it'll incorporate  chocolate chips.  So any solid ingredients are put  in on the back end.  And this is the machine here.  So as the ice cream is coming  through a pipeline, it's about  21 degrees, so it's still  flowable, still pumpable.  And we pump it through a special  contraption, right at the bottom  of this device here.  So we've got to make sure that  ice cream doesn't come off the  top, it's a special check valve  in there, and it'll incorporate  X amount of ingredients. 

 And that's another big part of  this formulation is what  ingredients are going in and how  many.  Generally speaking, when we run,  let's say, chocolate chip ice  cream, we put in about 6% to 8%  ingredients, added ingredients.  And then we also add a  variegate, or a swirl, and  that's butterscotch swirl, or  fudge swirl, whatever it might  be, and we actually pump that in  using a funnel and a positive  pump and we inject it into the  stream of ice cream after this  stage right here.  And that gives you that effect.  And that swirl is pumped in with  a special machine that, as ice  cream is flowing through it,  it's got special little-bitty  tubes that spin around, and it  gives you that swirl effect.  So it's very complicated, so  many stages along the way, then  you have to control that amount.  And generally we put in about,  any kind of a swirl, we put in  about 9% to 10% marbling, or  swirls.  And it kind of depends on what  kind of flavor you're after, but  some ice cream, vanilla ice  cream has nothing in it, it's  just straight vanilla ice cream  mix with a small amount of  vanilla extract added to it.  Some other ice creams, you can  load it up to 20%, maybe 25%  added ingredients, which really,  almost have the effect of eating  a frozen candy bar.  And anything in between, there's  so many different ranges of  different types and qualities of  ice cream that are out there. 

 So what you see right there is  ice cream that's about 21  degrees, it's going into a  three-gallon tub.  Every ice cream has to be  labeled correctly, it has to  know exactly what ingredients  are going into it.  And we produce a nutritional  statement, which we apply to the  side of the container right    there, and then we drop it into  a hardening tunnel.  And what's going on there?  That room takes the ice cream  and drops it down to -25 to -30  in that range.  And that's storage temperature.  Very important to store ice  cream cold.  Ice cream coming out at that  stage right there is at its  highest quality, it only goes  downhill from there.  It's got the greatest number of  real small ice crystals, it's at  its absolute highest quality,  what's gonna happen afterwards  is those ice crystals will  decrease in numbers and increase  in size, and that's considered a  negative, you want to keep those  as small as possible.  Generally speaking, to give a  perspective, ice cream comes out  here at about 18 microns, I  forget the unit, about 18  microns in size, and by the time  it goes into the hardening room,  and gets down to about -30, it  doubles in size.  And then from there when it goes  into a distribution operation,  into a truck, into a grocery  store, or into your freezer at  home, it'll double in size  again. 

 And then as your freezer starts  to defrost, and warm up and cool  down, again it'll increase to  the point where you'll start to  feel it.  Once ice crystals reach about 55  microns in size, that's when  your mouth can start to feel the  difference.  And to comment on that, it's  kind of what you're used to or  what you like, but as time goes  on, industry has told us that we  want to produce a real creamy,  smooth ice cream.  And I would argue that it's not  necessarily the deciding factor  on what you consider to be the  highest quality ice cream.  So many other factors are  involved into it.  And I'll start with fresh milk  and fresh cream and fresh  ingredients all the way across.  That type of thing, and certain  types of sweeteners that you  like, those are really, that's  the core part of ice cream,  that's really what, in my  opinion, what makes it good.  Ice crystals, you want it to be  smooth and creamy, and when you  get ice cream at home, you want  to protect it.  You don't want to buy big  containers of it, you want to  buy small containers of it, and  consume it as soon as possible.  The ice cream freezers at your  home are the worst, those are  the worst conditions for ice  cream. 

 Where we store ice cream at our  operation it's -30 and that's  fantastic and you can keep it  there and store it there just  fine and it's not gonna be in  trouble.  It's when it leaves there, it  starts to go down.  So there's a lot of different  factors along the way, but  another big factor is the type  of flavors that you use, and the  freshness of those flavors.  And that's where it gets  complicated, because you want to  buy certain flavors, and you  want to use those up as soon as  possible.  Flavors such as pecans, you want  to use fresh pecans, roasted and  salted pecans.  All that stuff makes a huge  difference.  Certain types of chocolate.  Certain types of fudge and  marshmallow and all those great  varieties, we probably have 100  different flavors, or even more  than that, different ingredients  that we use for various flavors.  But all those kinds of things,  you really want to take care of,  you don't want those to get old,  you want to keep those as fresh  as possible.  And you want to store them and  handle them in the best possible  shape because those things  really affect the finished  product. 

 Any questions so far?  Yeah.  >> At the beginning of the film,  you were talking about using  milk.  I saw big bags of nonfat dry  milk.  Do you use those, or do you use  fresh milk, or how do you do it?  >> Bill Klein: Good question.  Every ice cream out there needs  an additional milk solids.  We have to, as I mentioned  before, we need a total amount  of total solids of 40%, and  that's what gives it the body.  We have to have that added  solid.  You're not gonna get that from  straight milk, so what we  actually do is, we take milk,  you dry a portion of that milk.  You dry it and you put it into  the form of milk solids, nonfat,  or nonfat dry milk powder.  And we use that. 

 There's other types of milk  powder, or solids, and one of  them is condensed skim.  Other operations may use a whey  powder up to a certain point.  Whey powder is less expensive,  and it adds body, it's just that  you don't want to add too much  of it, in order to get a  negative effect of that.  But that's what that solid is  actually for.  Can you go to the slides on  there?  >> (inaudible)  >> Bill Klein: Another very  important ingredient  in ice cream production is the  stabilizer and the emulsifier.  The stabilizer, those are two  different ingredients that we  add, many operations now add  them together as one.  But the stabilizer is used to  give it body.  And different types of ice cream  have different types of body.  You might have some ice cream  that's designed, for example, a  novelty, to hold up outside on a  stick much better, so it's gonna  be real thick and dense and it's  gonna hold up to freezing much  better.  Other types of stabilizers are  designed to hold up better in  freezers and defrost cycles and  that kind of thing. 

 But you gotta be careful with  stabilizers and emulsifiers  because they can impart a  negative effect on it.  So the stabilizer is there to  give it the body, and give it  that texture that you're looking  for, and then another critical  part is the emulsifier.  And the emulsifier's there to  help.  What it does is it grabs hold of  the water phase in the ice  cream, and the fat phase, and it  holds it together.  Very important part.  During that barrel operation,  when that mix going through the  barrel, a churning effect is  taking place.  What's happening is, the fat  globules that go into that  system start to churn a little  bit.  We want that to happen, but if  you let it churn too much it'll  turn into butter.  So you get a little bit of  churning effect, and the  emulsifier is there to help  that.  And when it's churning a little  bit, without that emulsifier,  it's gonna cause it to separate  out, and the liquid portion will  pull away from the fat portion,  and you'll get what's called ---  solids, or as it melts, it'll  start to melt off as more of a  water substance. 

 So the emulsifier is very  important, and that's what helps  keep it all together.  In this slide here...  go to the next slide.  There's a picture...  hold on one second, here.  Before we get to the next slide,  it's a picture of ice cream  really close.  But inside a barrel, this is a  barrel right here, and this  series of blades fits inside  that barrel, and that's what  spins around to make ice cream.  So know that, the outside here  is Freon, that pulls the energy  out.  This barrel here spins around,  and it incorporates, it brings  in, as the air is pumped in on  one end, the air size particles  will become smaller in size, and  that'll wrap around the fat  globules that are in there, and  remember, the fat globules will  start to churn a little bit, and  then the fat globules are  attaching to the air cells as  well, as well as the protein is  combining as well.  In addition to all that, the ice  is starting to develop. 

 And as ice develops, that's what  these blades are for, they  develop on the inside of that  barrel.  The blades come by and they cut  it.  You can't see them, but they're  really tiny ice crystals.  And between the air and the fat,  they hold, if that's in the  right proportion, they will hold  the ice crystals, and surround  the ice crystals, to keep the  ice crystals from getting too  large.  So that whole effect must be in  place in order to produce the  highest quality, creamy ice  cream.  Go to the next level.  All right.  This is just an example, this is  a light microscope, and this is  what it looks like really close.  You can see these fat globules  here, and those air cells,  that's what it looks like up  close.  And the scientists, at least in  our department, food science  department, they study this kind  of thing, and the measure all  these dimensions of all these  ice crystals, and you can see  the ice crystals up above. 

 And not only do they measure it,  but they count it, and  everything has to be in the  right proportion in order to  produce what they want.  And again, it's all relative to  all the different ingredients  going into it.  The type of barrel or freezer  that you have, and again, this  freezer is computer operated, so  it measure the resistance and  the greater the amount of  resistance, the colder the ice  cream is, and the colder it is,  it becomes harder to pump.  So they speed the pump up, or  slow it down, they can increase  the speed of the barrel itself,  or the dasher inside the barrel,  all to produce the most  consistent batch of ice cream  possible.  Go to the next slide.  That's just an overview of our  plant, and the end of the  freezer, go to the next slide.  This is just an example of, as  ice is produced, it gets larger  and larger, and then it exits  the barrel.  Same way for air.  Air is pumped in as large, and  they get smaller and smaller and  it exits the barrel.  Go to the next one. 

 Same kind of thing, just a  little different description.  It's very detailed, but this is  what I mean when the fat is  actually starting to churn, and  it's clumping, these are fat  cells right here, they're  clumping together on the outside  of the air cell.  This is what you're looking for.  That's the, go to one more.  Next one.  All right.  I think there's one more left.  All right, that's good.  I want to touch on a little bit  of flavors before we start  taking some questions.  Flavors out there, 30% of all  ice cream flavors out there is  vanilla. 

 Everything else is after that,  but vanilla is by far the number  one flavor of ice cream.  I touched a little bit on  quality control, but again, I  got to emphasize, all this  happens because of quality  control.  Quality control in any dairy  plant has total care, custody,  control of the finished product.  So if there's a problem with it,  they'll put it on hold, they'll  make sure that that finished  product is exactly the way they  want it.  And they have certain standards  and specifications to make sure  of that, so we're constantly  testing it.  Every month we take all of our  ice cream and we lay it out as  such and we evaluate it.  We have maybe five or six  different new flavors that we  look at, and what are we looking  for?  We're looking for color, we're  looking for distribution, we're  looking for the flavor, we want  that fresh cream flavor.  We're looking for overrun  controls, so the weight has to  be just such.  And then when we put it into a  different cabinet, the handling  part of it, ice cream is stored  at -30, but when it goes into a  dipping cabinet it's five  degrees above zero.  At five degrees above zero,  about 50% of the water is still  at a liquid state. 

 At -30 it's about 20% is in a  liquid state.  But you need some of that water  to be in a liquid state in order  to be able to dip it, it's soft  enough to dip.  Just note that when it's soft  enough to dip, that's not  storage temperature, two weeks.  At that point, two weeks is  about as long as you want to  store it, and then you need to  get that consumed.  Most freezers at home are at  about that dipping temperature,  so you really don't want to  store ice cream much longer than  that.  Give me some questions.  Any questions?  Yes.  >> I was wondering if Babcock  makes any low-fat versions of  their ice cream.  >> Bill Klein: Yes we do.  We've got ice cream now,  anything less than 10% has to be  called low-fat ice cream. 

 And we have a low-fat frozen  yogurt ice cream.  But know that very little of  that is sold.  In other words, what they want  is the full fat ice cream.  We also have an ice cream that's  high fat, that's about 16% or  17% milkfat.  But again, our basic  formulation, since 1951, is the  12% milkfat ice cream.  But note that just because it  has a certain amount of fat,  that's an effect, or that's a  characteristic, but it's not the  main one.  That's really not what makes it,  there's so many other variables  in ice cream, that can cause it  to taste or feel as it does.  Question, yeah?  >> After vanilla, for Babcock  Hall ice cream, what are the top  four or five flavors?  >> Bill Klein: Vanilla being  number one, number two is by far  and away cookie dough.  Cookie dough and butter pecan,  butter pecan is third.  And fourth would be cookies and  cream. 

 But butter pecan is really  consumed, not so much by  students anymore, but it's the  older generations.  (laughter)  Yeah?  >> You make the same emulsifier  you use for cheese?  To make cheese?  >> Bill Klein: Say it again?  >> Do you use the same  emulsifier that is used in  making cheese?  >> Bill Klein: No, in fact, we  don't use an emulsifier for  cheese.  There's no emulsifier in cheese  production.  Yeah.  >> Wondering, do you make an ice  cream with a peanut butter  swirl?  >> Bill Klein: Yeah.  Yeah, we do.  It's a chocolate ice cream with  a variegate, a swirl, of peanut  butter.  >> What's it called?  >> Bill Klein: Chocolate peanut  butter.  Back to your emulsifier  question.  Processed cheese contains  emulsifiers. 

 Processed cheese does.  But natural cheese does not.  Yeah.  >> Can you explain the  difference between soft serve  and --- custard?  >> Bill Klein: If you go to  Culver's or McDonald's, you can  buy a soft-serve ice cream.  What that is, is ice cream  straight from the barrel, which  means it's 21 degree Fahrenheit.  When you buy an ice cream cone  that ice cream is 5 degrees  Fahrenheit, that means it's  dipped and it was stored in a  tub and that was tempered up to  5 degrees.  But that's a big difference,  because when you eat a  soft-serve, it's 21 degrees, so  it's a lot easier to eat.  The negative is, it gets into  your stomach faster, and it  gives you a stomachache if you  eat too fast.  Because it's easy to eat that  fast.  Yeah. 

 >> Is there any fundamental  difference between a high  quality like Babcock and a high  quality soft-serve like  Michael's and Culver's?  >> Bill Klein: It's designed,  well, note that the formulation  is designed, for soft-serve,  it's designed to be consumed  right now.  That formulation will not hard  freeze nearly as well, it won't  hold up to those hard freeze  conditions.  All these formulas are designed  in a certain way, and it's  usually controlled by the  emulsifier and the stabilizer.  Yeah.  >> Why aren't solids important  in homemade ice cream?  The addition of milk solids?  >> Bill Klein: When you make it  at home, if you made it at home,  is it generally pretty soft?  Yeah, none of that ice cream  that you make at home is  designed to be stored.  It's designed to be consumed  right then and there.  And that's really the big  reason.  But the solids, it is important  in that it gives you much more  body.  If you're running something at  home, it's probably closer to  30% solids, and it's a huge  difference in how it holds up in  storage, or even how it feels  and tastes right then and there.  It'll break down in your mouth  faster. 

 The other difference, though,  with your homemade, is you're  not gonna get nearly the  overrun.  So it's not gonna hold nearly as  much air.  And that solids, that added  solids, will help stabilize that  air, 80% overrun, or 80% air,  and keep it in place much  better.  Yeah?  >> Would you talk about sherbet?  How is that made?  >> Bill Klein: Sherbet is made  with dairy as well, it's a 2%  milkfat.  Maximum of 2% milkfat, so it's  lower in fat, but it's still a  dairy product.  Sherbet is made with a certain  amount of citric acid, we have  to add a certain level of acid  to give it that acidic flavor.  And then it's added with a fruit  base, whether it's a raspberry,  or the orange flavor, but it's,  in addition to that, what makes  sherbet unique compared to ice  cream is it's only 50% overrun.  So we put in quite a bit less  air, it's a real dense item.  But it's all the different  flavor, but again, it goes back  to, it's cold, it's got a bit of  creaminess to it, it's smooth,  and that combination is what we  all like.  Yeah. 

 >> You said that when things  don't go right, and the added  stuff, that you have to redo it.  Do you actually reuse what's in  there?  Or do you have to toss it?  >> Bill Klein: That's a good  question.  When we make ice cream, you get  to this point where it's ice  cream like that, and let's  assume we had bacteria in there  that we didn't want in there.  What do you do with it?  Virtually all the time, we throw  it out.  You can't rework it.  There's nothing, you know, you  have all these ingredients in  there, there's nothing you can  do with it, which is why we bend  over backwards to make sure that  doesn't happen.  And it rarely ever happens, but  it does happen occasionally.  So we have to check it and check  it again.  We wash our equipment at the end  of every day, the sanitation is  unbelievable.  We spend so much time sanitizing  and cleaning the plant, you'd be  amazed. 

 And then we wash it again before  we start up the next morning.  Of course, you sanitize,  sanitizing's different than  washing.  Washing is making sure it's all  clean, sanitizing is a different  chemical that makes sure that it  kills the bacteria that may be  present on that stainless steel.  And note that all the equipment  that we use in our plant is  stainless steel, so it doesn't  rust, and it's all clean-able.  Yes?  >> Who actually develops new  flavors?  >> Bill Klein: You guys do, we  do, we all do.  Anybody.  You might send me an email  tomorrow with a certain flavor,  and I may put it together.  But generally speaking, it's  just a combination of a lot of  different ideas.  In our case, it's relatively  easy because we make a lot of  small batches.  So if we make a mistake and  nobody likes it, it's not a  great loss because didn't make  very much of it. 

 But by and large, we've been in  that plant long enough, we know  what will be successful and what  won't be successful.  So we tweak it to make sure that  it's good.  But there's so many varieties,  there's so many options, there's  so many ways to go with it that  it's infinite.  It's not just the flavor,  because the list of flavors is a  mile long, and ingredients is a  mile long, amounts is a mile  long, but it's all the name that  sells it.  The name, the interesting part  of it, is what sells it, so it's  that marketing part of it.  Yeah?  >> How much ice cream do you  make in a year?  >> Bill Klein: We make about  100,000 gallons a year.  And we freeze, on any particular  day, this time of year we freeze  every day.  And we make usually two or three  different flavors per day.  You've got to be careful about  allergens, allergens always have  to be run last, and there's a  lot of allergens out there.  Anything with an egg,  marshmallow, for example, is an  allergen. 

 So there's a lot of last run  items.  And we package it in mostly  three-gallon tubs, but also into  little --- and pints and Dixie  cups and so on.  Yes?  >> The pecans, did you say were  salted, roasted?  >> Roasted and salted.  Many ingredients are coated with  an oil, some kind of material to  prevent it from absorbing in the  dipping cabinet.  Because when ice cream is stored  at 5 degrees, again, there's  free water in there.  50% of that water is not frozen,  it's in that liquid state, mixed  with sugar and so on.  And any ingredients, if you put  in waffle pieces, for example,  that's gonna absorb moisture,  and it's gonna get real soft,  and that's not good.  So a lot of that stuff is coated  with an ingredient to prevent  that from happening.  And you buy all those  ingredients fro manufacturers,  they've got that all tested out  ahead of time.  But pecans are roasted and  salted. 

 >> I was surprised that it's  salted.  >> Bill Klein: Oh yeah.  Oh yeah, it makes a big  difference if it's not salted.  Yeah.  Yes?  >> What do you use for  stabilizer and emulsifier?  >> Bill Klein: We use a gelatin  for a stabilizer, and we use a  monodiglyceride polysorbate 80  as the emulsifier.  >> What does that derive from?  >> Bill Klein: That is some type  of a plant fat.  It's the oil part of a plant,  and they derive it, somehow they  make it off of that.  Gelatin is derived from pork.  It's actually pork skin.  Yeah?  >> What's the difference with  frozen custard?  >> Bill Klein: Custard is made  with an egg. 

 The egg is in there at 1.4%.  Egg is added, because that's a  natural emulsifier.  It also has its own egg flavor  to it, it has a unique flavor to  it.  But the egg is added because  it's an emulsifier.  You need that emulsifier in  there to hold that water and  that fat part of it together,  otherwise it'll separate off.  Yes?  >> What were some flavors you  tried that were not successful?  >> Bill Klein: Peanut butter and  jelly was a disaster.  (laughter)  It sounded good, but  it didn't work.  Some other bad ones...  I don't know, generally, you  get good at that after a while,  you don't really make...  I got to think back. 

 We did a sunflower one a while  back, actually, I thought that  was good, but it never sold.  One that's coming up soon is  licorice, black licorice.  A lot of you, actually, a lot of  you would probably like it.  But that's gonna come, just  because I like it, and we're  gonna try it out.  (laughter)  >> When is that?  >> Bill Klein: I don't know.  If I give you a date, then I've  got too much pressure on me.  Feel free to email me, then I'll  give you a better answer.  Yeah?  >> Is all the ice cream  hand-packed?  >> Bill Klein: Yeah, when you  see that there.  We have this little Dixie cup  machine, that made these cups  here, with a machine, but most  everything else in our plant,  we're a relatively manual  operation, so it's pumped off a  pipe, about a six-foot section  of pipe, and we hold it there,  and then we fill it in as such.  So it's hand-packed to a degree. 

 Yes?  >> Have there been any  experiments using radiation  instead of heat?  >> Bill Klein: For  pasteurization?  >> Yeah.  >> Bill Klein: I've actually  heard, we haven't done any of  that, but I was at a conference  just the other week, and there's  more and more talk about that  kind of thing.  And that's something that's down  the road, it's nowhere near,  it's not in the dairy industry  yet.  It's not in our industry.  So I don't know the effects of  it.  One of the things about our  dairy plant, and any dairy  plant, especially in Wisconsin,  is it's very heavily regulated.  Our inspectors are in our plant  quite often, and they inspect  our pasteurizer, they inspect  the entire plant, they inspect  our finished product.  And they look at it very  closely, very heavily regulated.  The food industry in general is,  and the dairy industry  especially is.  >> Can we become part of those  volunteers that taste...?  >> Bill Klein: You bet!  (laughter)  I can't do it  anymore, I have one little  spoonful every day, and that's  as much as I can eat. 

 I'm always looking for somebody  to help taste that stuff.  Yeah?  >> What actually is the  relationship between Babcock and  the university?  >> Bill Klein: Good question.  The food science department was  built, in fact, there's about 12  of us universities around the  country that actually has a  dairy plant right on the campus.  And the dairy plant was built as  part of the food science  department, we are the food  science department, to provide a  place for instruction and for  research to occur.  And so we're not built, we're  not there to produce milk and to  produce ice cream and to make  cheese, which is what we do,  we're there, and we do all those  things so we can teach and we  can provide an outlet for  research.  We have a lot of students that  work in our plant.  Most of our employees are  student employees.  And there's a lot of classes  that come through, unbelievable  amount of classes, almost every  week there's a classroom that  comes through our plant.  Whether it's cheese, ice cream,  sanitation, whatever it is, goes  on and on.  And we provide an outlet for  grad students for their projects  and so on. 

 Being the dairy state, the  industry loves it, we also have  industry come in quite often,  almost every couple weeks, and  they do projects in our plant,  as well.  And they like our plant because  we're approved as a food  operation and we're small, so we  can run real small batches for  various projects.  Yeah?  >> What is the source of your  milk and cream?  >> Bill Klein: Good question.  We have a dairy farm right on  campus.  >> Can you repeat the question?  >> Bill Klein: A source for our  milk, where do we get our milk  from?  First of all, cream comes from  the milk, so our cream comes all  from our milk itself.  But the milk comes from, we have  a dairy farm right on campus, in  fact, the university's got three  or four different farms.  But we get, there's milk right  on campus, only about two blocks  away.  So we use their milk.  But it's not enough milk to meet  our needs, we need about 12,000  pounds of milk per day, they  produce about 4,000.  So we also combine that with  some area dairy farms in the  surrounding Dane County area. 

 And they combine that, bring it  into our plant, and we use that.  And we use it every day, so we  have a system set up, so if  we're bringing milk today, it's  processed by the end of  tomorrow.  So within 24 hours, it's  processed, that's the beauty,  that's really the most  important, if you get anything  out of this at all, it's fresh  milk.  That is such an important thing.  >> Are you a seven-day-a-week  operation, then?  >> Bill Klein: Yep, during the  summertime we produce ice cream  every day, we produce cheese  three days a week, year round,  and we bottle milk only about  two or three times, small  amounts of it, during the  summertime.  During the school year, we  bottle milk every day, a lot of  milk.  That's why it's a unique place  to be, because there's so many  different operations going on,  whether it's ice cream, cheese,  or milk, or sour cream or  yogurt, whatever it might be,  but there's a lot of different  operations.  Yeah?  >> (inaudible)  >> Bill Klein: I  haven't noticed it, but I think  it's still a very small  percentage.  It might be popular more than it  was, but it's still a real small  percentage.  The thing about ice cream is, in  the economic times that we're  in, ice cream sales actually go  up. 

 Again, I call it a reward food,  but people buy ice cream because  they want to make themselves  happy and it's easier and  cheaper to do that than to go  out to dinner, or to do  something bigger.  So it's interesting because the  ice cream industry right now is  actually on the rise, it  actually does better in bad  conditions.  Any other questions?  >> I wonder if you could talk  about how you make frozen  yogurt.  >> Bill Klein: Frozen yogurt is  made, it's a formulation that's  got lower milkfat, it's about 3%  milkfat, and it's added with, we  use cultures, specially designed  bacteria cultures, that we add  to the mix when it's warm and we  let it grow to a certain level  of acidity.  And that depends on the  manufacturer.  Some places have a lot of  acidity, some have very little,  some have none.  But you let the bacteria grow to  a certain point, and then you  cool it back down again and you  freeze it up, just like normal.  But that's what that is.  And some types of bacteria  nowadays are designed for  probiotics and other things that  have nice health effects.  Yeah?  >> Are your dairy products sold  anywhere else other than on  campus at Babcock?  >> Bill Klein: Yeah, we produce  all of our dairy products and  95% of it is sold wholesale all  over campus. 

 On campus.  And we sell the rest of it  through our dairy store.  And some manufacturers, or some  businesses will buy some of our  ice cream and sell it off campus  to a small extent.  Yeah?  >> Can you remind us what the  hours are currently?  >> Bill Klein: I'll tell you,  yeah, they are 9:30 AM weekdays  till 5:30 PM.  Saturdays now we just changed  our hours, we're open later on  Saturdays till 4:00.  And that was a great move,  because sales really went way up  ever since we did that.  And Sundays we're closed.  And it's open at 10:30 on  Saturdays.  I think it's 10:30.  But there's a web page, so you  can see it all on there. 

 Trying to think if I missed  anything else, anything else at  all?  Top three manufacturing states  in the United States for ice  cream are, do you know?  What's the first one?  Take a guess.  It's always California,  California.  California's number one, number  two is Indiana, number three is  Texas.  Wisconsin's like 11 or 12 or  something.  We're number one in cheese, and  we're number two in milk  production.  Number 12 in ice cream.  Anything else?  I think that's all I've got.  (applause)  So, be good to yourself,  and eat ice cream  every single day.