- John McGivern: I'm in Eastern Michigan
in a town known as Little Bavaria.
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- ? 'Cause these are our main streets ?
? Something about a hometown speaks to me ?
? There's nowhere else I'd rather be ?
? The heart and soul of community's ?
? Right here ?
? On these main streets ?
? ?
- John: I am on Main Street
in the tourist town Frankenmuth, Michigan.
It is all things German here.
How German is it?
Well, the only official sanctioned Oktoberfest
outside of Munich, Germany, it's here.
Frankenmuth has a population of 5,100,
but in the summer, it's so much bigger.
It's here in Michigan's Lower Peninsula,
in the middle of the eastern half of Michigan,
and it's about 120 miles east of Grand Rapids
and 80 miles due north
of Ann Arbor.
[imitates German accent] This is Frankenmuth.
Emmy, I thought since you were going to be doing history,
we'd be in a big, great beer hall
with men in Lederhosen
and pretzels the size of my head.
- Emmy Fink: That sounds perfect. - John: Yeah!
- Emmy: I didn't know it was an option.
- John: Could have been.
- Emmy: But I brought you here because this spot is
really where it all began.
So, look behind us.
This log cabin is a replica of the very first structure,
which happened to be a church
that was ever built in Frankenmuth.
Settlers came over in 1845 from Franconia, Germany.
- John: Why did they come here?
- Emmy: Well, the first 15 original settlers
were all missionaries.
They wanted to create an all-German Lutheran community.
- John: Well, it's quite a journey to come all that way
and to start, like, a community from scratch.
- Emmy: I mean, really, you think about it,
it's so courageous. - John: Yeah.
- Emmy: And the word courage is
actually how the town got its name.
So Franken represents Franconia,
and Muth is German for "courage."
So, it stands for the courage of the Franconians.
Isn't that neat?
- John: Is there still a congregation?
- Emmy: There is.
So, the St. Lorenz community is still alive and well.
And, get this: once a month, they have a service
that's done completely in German.
- John: It makes sense.
There should be a German service here in Frankenmuth,
don't you think? - Emmy: I know, there should be.
And while we're here,
I was thinking we should try to get to church.
- John: Do you speak German? - [Emmy imitates speaking German]
[Old World music]
- John: I'm at Bronner's CHRISTmas Wonderland,
and that's all I can think of is, "I can't wait for Christmas."
Let's talk your history.
Because this is your family's store.
- Carla Bronner Spletzer: It is. Yeah.
- John: How did this happen? - Carla: My dad started it
just when he got out of high school,
and he painted signs and did window displays
for people around town and around the area.
And then, one year for Christmas,
they wanted some decorative scenes
to hang from their street posts in the city.
Next year, they wanted more.
A few other people said, "Hey, we'd like some of that for our city."
And as these different city committees and groups
would get together, and they said,
"Well, don't you have any Christmas decorations
for the home?" He said, "Well, no."
And it all started evolving from there.
- John: And square footage-wise, what do you have here?
- Carla: It's the size of 1 1/2 football fields
for the public area, for the store area.
And the whole building is
the size of five football fields.
- John: It's remarkable! - Carla: Yeah.
- John: And it's all year. - Carla: Yes.
We're open all year round. We're only closed four days.
- John: And every night...
- Carla: Every night from dusk till midnight. - John: ...of the year.
- Carla: It's a half-mile, Christmas Lane.
- John: So, it's Christmas every day here.
- Carla: All year round. Ha ha!
- John: You sure have a selection.
- Carla: Oh, our buyers do a great job, yeah.
- John: And is ornaments much of your business?
- Carla: Yes, yeah. - John: Yeah.
- Carla: We have thousands of styles of ornaments,
and many of them can be personalized while you wait.
- John: What are you painting today?
- I'm going to paint Main Streets.
- John: You are? - Yes.
It's a tradition with a lot of families.
- John: And this is freehand, isn't it?
- Yes, it is.
- John: Did you go to a parochial school or something?
- Actually, I did. - John: Did you?
- Carla: One year, Dad painted the names of the kids
on ornaments as a gift at the Christmas party.
- John: Nice. - So then, people...
"Well, we'd like to get some of those for our family."
- John: That is beautiful! - Oh. Thank you.
- John: What?!
And you did it in no time.
You're dealing with the happiest time of the year for all of us.
- Carla: Absolutely. Yeah. - John: You know,
but your dad didn't set out saying,
"I want the largest Christmas store in the world."
- Carla: Never.
He never, in his wildest dreams, thought it would ever grow
to be the world's largest Christmas store.
- John: This is going on my tree, just so you know.
["Silent Night" instrumental]
- Emmy: After Bronner's,
make your way here to the Silent Night Chapel.
This is a replica of the original chapel in Austria,
where "Silent Night," or "Stille Nacht,"
was first sung back in 1818.
So the story goes, the chapel's organ broke
right before Christmas.
So the pastor asked his friend, Franz Gruber,
if he would write a melody for "Silent Night."
"Silent Night" is the most recorded song
in the entire world.
And Wally Bronner built this to give thanks
for all of his blessings.
- John: I am in the middle of Frankenmuth
in between this town's two biggest icons,
Zehnder's Restaurant and the Bavarian Inn restaurant.
Different themes, but they have almost the same chicken dinner.
Very friendly competition.
Why? Because it's the same family.
They're cousins.
I don't know which one to have first.
[upbeat guitar]
We're standing in front of your iconic business--
"Zehnder's famous chicken dinners."
- Al Zehnder: Yes. Our family came here in 1846.
In the 1900s,
the New Exchange Hotel was built.
And that's the building that my grandfather bought in 1928,
and we opened in 1929. - John: Wow!
- Al: We've been here a long time.
- John: What generation are you? - Al: I'm number three.
- John: You're number three? - Al: I'm number three.
And we're proud to have many of our fourth generation
in the business currently.
- John: So you've known this your whole lives?
- Yeah, started picking up trash in the parking lot
when I was ten years old.
- John: I bet you did.
- So, my first job was the junior hostess.
- John: There we go. Future looks good to me.
- Al: They look good, yup.
Very proud of them. - John: That's nice.
So, it's a big restaurant.
- Al: 1,500 seats. We call it--
- John: Say it again. - Al: 1,500 seats.
We call it America's largest family restaurant.
- John: That's a big restaurant!
- Al: That's a big restaurant, yeah.
- John: This isn't your only operation.
- Al: No, it's not.
Zehnder's Splash Village opened in 2005,
and it was so successful that by 2015, we opened phase two.
And then, we have The Fortress Golf Course.
- John: Oh, the golf course as well, yeah.
- Al: Yeah. We opened in 1992 as an 18-hole facility.
- John: Will you take me for a walk around?
- Al: I'd be happy to. - John: OK, good.
Holy man! What?!
You go, girl.
- Al: I started right here when I was 14 years old.
75¢ an hour. I'll never forget it.
- John: Right, right.
- Al: Let's go this way. - John: OK.
- Al: Mind steps? - John: This is like a city.
- Al: When I started here, it was just a restaurant.
And I knew early on that
if we're just going to be a restaurant,
we won't be exciting enough or big enough.
And most of our retail, Zehnder's Marketplace,
is located on the lower level of Zehnder's.
- John: Wait, what?
[guitar]
Did you have any idea? Ha ha! This is a lot.
- Al: Yeah, it's a lot.
- John: Your name is everywhere! Ha ha!
You know what I'd love?
I'd love to sit down and have a piece of chicken.
- Al: Let's do it.
This is our basic family-style chicken dinner.
- John: Nice.
- Al: We treat gravy as a beverage.
- John: [Laughs] Can I get a cup, please?
- Al: My cousin, who was our executive chef for years,
he always characterized us as the capital of comfort food.
We have generations of guests who've been here for so long,
you get to know them. - John: Right, family dinner.
This is nice.
The entire operation is really impressive.
- Al: Thank you. - John: Yeah.
To you and your family.
Thank you so much for opening your doors to us today.
- Al: My pleasure. Thank you. - John: Thanks.
This was a treat.
John: This is the Frankenmuth Riverwalk.
It makes its way along the Cass River, and a great way
to experience the waterway is the "Bavarian Belle."
It's a two-story paddle boat,
and you can get on there for an hour
to take a cruise through downtown on the river.
If you're looking for a little family fun while you're here--
and when I say family fun,
I'm talking about keeping your kids busy,
so you can do a little more shopping--
there are over 40 gnomes in Frankenmuth
in shops and attractions,
so come to the Visitor Center, get your scavenger hunt list,
and send your kids gnome hunting.
I'd like to find a few gnomes myself.
I am at Star of the West Milling Company.
You can't miss this when you're in town.
- Mike Fassezke: You can't.
We are one of the founding stories of Frankenmuth.
We're 154 years old this year.
We've been in this location since 1910,
and the city basically grew up around us.
We have five flour mills. This is our flagship plant.
This is where we got our start.
We produce about 3.3 million pounds of flour a day
out of the five flour mills. - John: A day.
- Mike: In this part of the state,
we grow a soft white wheat, which is a specialty wheat,
a boutique wheat that the cereal industry likes.
Because soft white wheat has been in Michigan
for hundreds of years... - John: Yeah.
- Mike: ...the cereal industry kind of dovetailed with that
and located here back in the day.
- John: A farmer who grows this brings it here and...
- Mike: He does. Yeah. - John: And then what happens?
- Mike: That's just the beginning.
The process of milling flour today is simple,
but it's very difficult.
- John: This is a feat of engineering, isn't it?
- Mike: Ohh, unbelievable! Yeah.
There are three basic steps.
First of all, you have to clean the wheat.
- John: Wow!
- Mike: This is an optical sorter...
And the cleaning process is very sophisticated.
It's a camera system that looks at every kernel of wheat
and makes sure it's the right color
before the milling process begins.
So, every one of those kernels is being looked at,
and that just-- that amazes me.
- Mike: Number two is you have to reduce the particle size
or grind the wheat.
This wheat has already been through the cleaning house.
And the rolls, because they're spinning at different speeds,
doesn't crush it, it shears it open,
and that releases flour.
You know, I always check that it gets a little bit cleaner.
Our attempt is to just slowly scrape that flour off
bran coat. - John: OK.
- Mike: And number three is you have to separate
the different streams.
So, what's happening in those sifters,
you've got a very coarse screen at the top,
and the product makes its way down,
and it's distributed to the proper roll stand
for further reduction.
- John: This is like a ride at the state fair.
I'm about ready to--
- Mike: It's all about technology.
It's all about being able to put more through
in the space that you have.
So, right here, we fill the bag with flour
or any other product we make.
And then it's stacked robotically at the end.
So, everything that you see here is going to ship
probably in the next 24 hours.
- John: You've been here how long?
- Mike: 47 years... - John: 47 years.
- Mike: ...after I graduated college.
- John: It seemed to work out. - Mike: It did.
It's been a good ride.
- John: 3 million people pass
under that impressive banner sign every year.
And it says Willkommen, which means "welcome" in German.
What do you think it says on the other side?
OK, German-speaking people, don't give it away!
[quizzical music]
- Emmy: "Willkommen" on one side
and "Auf Wiedersehen" on the other.
"Goodbye," or "Until we meet again."
And now, I want to watch The Sound of Music.
[cuckoo clock sounding, different clock chiming]
- John: You've got some clocks.
- Greg Burton: I got a couple. - John: You do! Ha ha!
How long have you been doing this?
- Greg: Almost 12 years, I've been doing this.
The store has been here for 40 years.
- John: Let's talk cuckoo clocks.
So, what is the tradition of cuckoo clocks?
- Greg: In the wintertime,
there wasn't really anything to do.
So, the farmers would start making clocks
during the wintertime so that they could make extra money.
- John: Yeah.
- Greg: And so, they started simple, like, with, you know,
five leaves and a little bird on top.
[cuckoo, cuckoo, cuckoo]
And then, they would start to have a little bit more fun.
So that's called a "feeding birds."
You know, it would be fun if the beer drinker slammed his beer
on the table. [Cuckoo, cuckoo, cuckoo]
- John: What! - Greg: Yeah!
This is actually the most popular clock that we sell.
When you have things like this,
there is a lot of mechanical work on the inside.
- John: Do you repair clocks here as well?
- Greg: Yeah, full-service repair.
There's not a lot of people that do it anymore.
And we have a two-year waitlist right now.
I think 700 to 800 downstairs waiting to be repaired.
- John: Because they've worn out?
- Greg: Because if you don't change the oil in your car,
you're not going to have a car that's going to run properly.
The same goes with any kind of mechanical clock.
- John: And how many do you have here?
How many clocks?
- Greg: We have over a thousand on display.
- John: Right. Are there more somewhere else?
- Greg: In the basement. - John: In the basement.
- Greg: This is what actually made me
fall in love with the store.
When I first came here,
I saw it and heard it play, and I was just--
That was it. I was done.
- John: Can you talk about the pine cones?
- Greg: Those are weights. This is what powers the clock.
So that's what makes it cuckoo and keep time and play music.
- John: I know nothing, OK? [laughter]
All the cuckoo clocks that are sold out of this store,
are they all made in Germany? - Greg: All of them.
There's only really five major cuckoo clock manufacturers
left in the world. - John: Have you been there?
- Greg: Oh, yeah. Many times. I go every year.
I go and pick out what we're going to sell.
- John: Are grandfather clocks still popular?
- Greg: They ebb and flow.
When the store opened in 1984, the original owner,
Mike Nestell, he said, "I used to deliver them four at a time."
I mean, now-- what he had in the store then--
I don't even think there's that many different models
of floor clocks left. - John: Is that right?
- Greg: You point, and I'll play.
- John: It's programed to Christmas right now.
- Greg: Ha ha! - John: Yeah.
- Greg: These are called German pyramids.
And the heat from the candles rises
and it makes the fans spin, which makes the scene turn.
So, these are German smokers.
And you put a little cone-shaped incense there,
and you light it, and the smoke will come out of his mouth.
- John: So if you look back 12 years ago
and you think of where you were going to be in 12 years,
is this what you saw? - Greg: Not exactly.
But I tell you what, I couldn't have made a better choice.
- John: Good for you. - Greg: No, I love what I do,
and not many people can say that.
[polka music]
- Emmy: This is my Frankenmuth tip.
You have to come to the Frankenmuth Brewery.
It was built in 1862.
It is the state's oldest brewery,
and the locals tell me that it was built
because people needed a place to go after church.
I mean, some do brunch, some do coffee, some do beer.
I am so glad John McGivern doesn't drink.
? ?
Ohh, that's so good.
- John: I'm inside the carding room
at the Frankenmuth Woolen Mill.
- Abby Curtis: This business has been in operation since 1894.
- John: Since 1894. - Abby: Yup.
So, my husband and I are the fourth owners.
- John: Do the farmers, they bring you the wool,
and you do the rest?
- Abby: Yes. - John: That's how it comes.
- Abby: This is how it comes.
And so, anything that's in the barnyard,
it's probably in that wool.
So, we fill the bathtub with 180-degree hot water.
Then we throw in some wool,
and then he swishes it around with a pitchfork
and loosens up all the dirt and the oil.
- John: There's poop in there!
What else is in there?
- Abby: Whatever a sheep would get into, right?
- John: Because that's one dirty tub.
- Abby: So then we'll put it in this machine here,
which is called an extractor.
It's like the spin cycle on your washing machine.
This is original, in the same spot since 1894.
And we rinse until it's clear.
And to the drying rack it goes.
- John: Three to five days for it to be fully dry. - Abby: Correct.
So then, it goes to the carding room.
This thing was made in the 1870s...
- John: Is that right? - Abby: Yeah...
and installed here in the mill in the 1930s.
This machine combs it and fluffs it,
so it comes out as the batting
that goes inside of our comforters
and our mattress toppers.
So he pulls the bat off,
and it comes off in one large piece.
- Not as easy as it looks.
[Laughter]
- John: I'm not getting through any of it!
There are women doing something upstairs.
- Abby: So we put on a layer of organic fabric.
We pin it all the way around.
And then, they're going to put wool on the top,
and then, they'll put another layer of fabric,
and then, they'll start to tie it.
- John: It's amazing
because it's all hands-on for everything.
- Abby: And they tie about every nine inches.
So, they go two times going one way
and two times going the other so that it doesn't come untied.
And then it would go over to Ms. Christie,
and she sews the edges.
- John: Do you know that machine pretty well?
- Christie: This is my machine. - John: Is it yours?
- Christie: I love it.
- John: Now, that's going to make television,
just so you know. That's so good!
- Abby: So, we finish them up here,
and we package them for sale.
- John: Ha ha!
- Abby: There's very few businesses that have been doing
the same thing since 1894.
- Like you're doing a pillow...
- Abby: And we're American-made...
- John: And you're American-made.
- Abby: Top to bottom. [laughter]
We can control every piece of the process.
- John: It's got to be the best. I mean, doesn't it?
- Abby: Are you seeing the control freak in me? Ha ha!
[cheerful music]
- Abby: There is so much to do in Frankenmuth inside
that I was ready for a little fresh air.
I've never, ever done a ropes course,
but kids do this, right?
You can start doing this at age seven?
- Seven, yeah.
- Emmy: I can't be scared because seven-year-olds do it.
- So, these are your safety clips, and so...
- Emmy: Come with me.
? ?
Oh, my gosh. I'm a little more scared
than I really thought I would be.
This is crazy! Ooh. Oh!
You guys just flew through here.
Yes! OK, that was fun.
Whoo!
Oh, I can't believe John's missing this.
Last one.
[pulley buzzes]
Whoo!
I love it!
Frankenmuth Aerial Park. Don't miss it.
- John: This covered bridge looks like it
could have been built in 1879.
It was completed in 1979.
They wanted to make a modern bridge
but use Old World building techniques.
So they had oxen pulling all of the pieces
to put into place.
OK, that's going a little too far, right, I think.
Holz Brücke.
What I think is great about this museum is that we're
not looking at the tools of war, the weapons of war.
- Emmy: Mm-hmm. This is a museum about the people.
This is the Michigan Heroes Museum.
And it's all about heroes of war and space.
A gentleman named Stan Bozich,
when he was younger, him and his brothers would collect
all these military artifacts.
They would find them, and then, the next day,
they'd go and play war with them.
And they said even back then,
they would someday start a museum.
And in 1976, Stan did.
- John: And do you have any idea how many stories they have?
- Emmy: There's over 900 rotating displays
but about 170 at any given time. - John: Any given time.
Take a look. Here's a silver frame...
- Emmy: Mm-hmm. - John: portrait...
and a gold frame portrait.
Those in the gold frame perished,
and they sacrificed their lives.
- Emmy: If it's a silver frame, they lived through the war.
What a really respectful way to distinguish
between the two stories. - John: Yes.
What's in these cabinets belonged to these people
we're honoring. - Emmy: Right.
- John: So that is his uniform.
These are his 13 Medals of Honor and the books that he read.
And what's really great-- take a look.
He came to see how he'd been honored in this display.
- Emmy: Let me tell you about Christina Koch.
Eleven months she spent in space.
That is the longest amount of time for a woman,
the second longest amount of time for an American.
And she made history.
- John: I mean, we could meet her.
I mean, this is a contemporary...
- Emmy: Exactly. - John: who's living
at the same time we are - Emmy: Right.
John, this is Duane Hackney's story.
He was the youngest Air Force Cross award winner,
and he did more than 200 rescue missions in Vietnam.
Eleven times, he was actually left there
because the airplane left to go to safety,
and he had to just find cover.
And he lived through all of that.
- John: Made his way home. - Emmy: Isn't that amazing?
- John: Yeah.
- Emmy: Just extraordinary stories.
- John: And really important to tell these stories.
- Emmy: These stories live on.
- John: We need our Wisconsin museum, don't we?
Let's talk to John and see if he can come to Wisconsin
and tell him to set that up...
There's still strong ties to the old country.
Can you guess what percentage of the population of Frankenmuth
are ethnically German?
[quizzical music]
- Emmy: 49% of Frankenmuth's population is of German descent,
and I hope that explains the outfit.
I just like to fit right in.
- John: We're at the iconic Bavarian Inn.
Your family has something to do with this.
- Amy Grossi: Yes, well, my family owns and operates
Bavarian Inn. - John: They do.
- Amy: So, I am the fourth generation...
- John: You are. - Amy:...in our family business.
- John: So you've been prepared to do this?
- Amy: I think so. - John: Ha ha!
And if the place had every seat filled, how many people
would be sitting there? - Amy: 1,200 people.
- John: 1,200? - Amy: At one time, yes.
- John: The glockenspiel, when did that show up?
- Amy: Yeah, it showed up in 1967.
My grandparents had been in Munich
and saw the glockenspiel there and said,
"We need one in Frankenmuth."
- John: Like, it's really remarkable that that's here.
- Amy: Yeah, it's kind of a Frankenmuth landmark.
- John: Yeah.
- Amy: So now, we're in our lower level.
- John: Right. - Amy: Shops.
This is the gift shop--
homemade candy and fudge over here.
- John: Oh, nice.
- Amy: Lots of souvenir items... - John: Sure.
- Amy: German items.
- John: The Irish guy in a German hat.
- Amy: Our doll and toy shop.
- John: The only baby I'll ever have.
Sweet baby.
Yeah, this is a good-looking strudel. - Amy: Yes.
- John: Oh, I love the one with powdered sugar.
- Amy: Mm-hmm. So we have some German wines here.
We have Michigan wines. - John: Private label.
- Amy: Yes. - John: Yours?
- Amy: Yes. - John: Yeah.
- Amy: Yeah. So we're in the kitchen right now,
and you can see Megan here is preparing
her meal to take out.
They'll get all their things there
and head out to the dining room.
We have what we call
the ultimate Bavarian family-style meals.
- John: And meat-centric. - Amy: Yes.
- John: Yeah, which is fine. - Amy: Yes, we're German. Ha ha!
- John: No doubt.
- Our family-style chicken, seasonal vegetables,
butter noodles and dressing,
mashed potatoes, gravy.
And we've got our schnitzel, bratwurst,
rippchen, and sauerbraten.
- John: Where should we start?
- Amy: My grandmother helped develop this menu,
and so a lot of the recipes that we have are
our German ancestors', their recipes.
And you have to have some chicken.
We're most famous for Frankenmuth-style chicken.
- John: I feel German.
I just do.
You've been doing it well for four generations, yes?
- Amy: Yeah, well, I hope so. - John: You have, yeah.
- Amy: It's a fun business to be a part of.
Our purpose is creating enjoyable experiences
both for our guests and for our team members.
So, if you don't have happy team members,
you don't have happy guests. - John: It's a lot.
But don't worry. I'll get to it.
? ?
Emmy, you've got to be familiar with the word we hear a lot
in our hometown of Milwaukee: "Gemütlichkeit."
- Emmy: Oh, sure! I've heard that word.
Like, cozy... - John: Yeah, cozy. - Emmy: And warm.
- John: Warm. - Emmy: Good cheer.
- John: Yeah, it certainly describes Frankenmuth,
doesn't it? - Emmy: Oh, to a T.
Now we just have to get you some Lederhosen.
- John: Oh, I have some.
- ? There's nowhere else I'd rather be ?
? The heart and soul of community's ?
? Right here... ?
- John: Pretzels the side of-- size of a-- [gibberish]
Something's going wrong.
Where do we-- where do we? - Emmy: Where do we go?
[laughter]
- Emmy: ? Auf wiedersehen, good night ?
- John: Were you done? - Emmy: Um, yeah.
- John: Ha ha! Were you?
[John claps] - Perfect, great. - Wow.
- Announcer: We thank the underwriters
of John McGivern's Main Streets
because, without them, we couldn't make this show.
- Your community's best
selfie spot is Your-Type.
- The Wisconsin Northwoods are calling.
One word, one place. Minocqua.
- My father taught me that to make great bakery,
you have to do it the right way.
O&H Danish Bakery, where Kringle traditions begin.
- Yes, Greendale is beautiful on the outside,
but it's what's inside that counts.
Who doesn't love opening a door to beautiful treasures?
Whether you're a collector...
in need of the perfect gift...
or would like something special for yourself...
Come on in!
You just gotta see Greendale.
[playful melody]
- You'll find your bright spot
in Sun Prairie, Wisconsin.
- There's no place like Oconomowoc.
Explore, play, shop, stay.
Visit Oconomowoc.
- Announcer: John McGivern's Main Streets is grateful
for additional financial support from...
Horicon Bank: The Natural Choice,
West Bend Insurance Company: the Silver Lining,
our nonprofit, the Friends of Main Streets,
and from the Friends of PBS Wisconsin.
Thanks, underwriters!
- Emmy: I just have to say,
whoever takes care of
all of the beautiful flowers here in Frankenmuth,
well done.
[whispering] Come to my house.